Retreat Center

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The main reason I came to Japan this time (and the last two times) was for Awakening To Presence workshops.  This year there were two workshops I attended.  The first one was an all graduate workshop with 20 people from four classes, both Japanese and Americans.  It was so wonderful to be with everyone, five days of living in the present moment with such beautiful people.

Since my body decided 5:00 – 6:00 in the morning is a good time to get up (even though breakfast isn’t until 8:00), I was able to get a walk in every morning.  A lot of my pictures are of beautiful scenes or flowers from walking near the retreat center. 

After we were done with the first week, it took three taxis to take us from the retreat center to the nearby town.  The first taxi was a van and was directed to come down to the farthest building to pick us up and take us up to our suitcases half way up the hill.  It scraped on trees as the driver tried to turn it around making horrible sounds of tree branches crushing metal.  It probably didn’t crush the metal, but I assume a lot of paint was scraped off and replaced with deep gouges.  The people that walked up the path beat the van by quite a bit. 

Then there was a lot of flurry as suitcases were moved around and put in the van.  I watched my suitcases go into the van so I followed them and got in the van.  Peggy and a bunch of the Japanese followed me into the van.  This left the other two Americans looking a bit lost, holding their luggage by the side of the path.  I’m sure they will end up in the same place.

When we got up to the main road, we found the other two taxis who were lost.  There was some conversation, probably around the lines of, ” don’t go down there, you can’t handle it”.  So we and all our luggage were booted from the van and moved to another van and off we went to the town of Ueda.

The original van and a car went to get the rest of the people and they did show up in the same place after us in Ueda.

My suitcase rolly handle broke.  I had been strapping my duffle bag to the top of my rolly carryon suitcase and the set up was awesome until it broke.  I could still roll the bag on semi flat surfaces, but I had to pick it up when the ground was uneven.  And now I had to carry the duffle.  It was all do-able, but definitely an upper body workout.  I looked for tape and couldn’t find any duct tape.  I tried a craft tape, but it was similar to electrical tape and worked for three minutes.

After a three day break, I went back for the second workshop.  I took an hour long bus ride hoping I was on the right bus.  I followed along on my map as we went and when we didn’t turn the wrong way at any forks in the road, I stayed on.  I did get off a stop or two early.  I think Google maps lead me astray.  It does pretty good, but has led me wrong before and most likely will again.  I watched the bus head off in the exact direction I needed to go.  I limped off behind it for three blocks with my broken suitcase and duffle bag in hand. 

Then I took a train to Tokyo and as I was waiting on the platform for my second train, I heard “Rraine!”. I looked toward the voice and there was Rika.  Rika is one of the other ATP graduates.  She was also headed to the second workshop.  She asked which train car I was on and I said “11”.  She said “Me too”.  We looked at our seats and she had the seat in front of me.  She looked online and found that no one had booked the seat next to me so we sat together on the ride.  She gave me half her lunch.

This second workshop was a new committed group of students.  I was one of the assistants along with Rika and Yuri.  There were also three more assistants who are just starting their assistant training program.  The workshop was intense and wonderful.  It was the smoothest most grounded group of assistants I have worked with.  A true joy.

There are a lot of unspoken rules at the retreat center or maybe not unspoken, but lost in translation.  In the hall where we meet, each sliding glass door had five doors – four glass and one screen.  When someone is going to do process work, the doors get closed, but I’m not sure why – we are on the side of a mountain in the forest – no one to disturb.  Then part way through the emotional processing, the doors get opened.  I can’t seem to figure out the doors.  You’d think five doors would be manageable, but I seemed to always have three glass doors on one side and one on the other or two and two, but not the right two so shortly later, someone would fix it.  I gave up trying after a couple days.

Another confusing thing was laundry.  I wanted to do laundry on the third day here.  It had to go up the chain of command.  Then I was told at least four different things by different people.  Maybe the 8th or the 9th.  Maybe 8:00, 9:00 or 10:00.  I decided to be ready and wait until some one said, “laundry now”.  I got shown twice how to do and where to do laundry.  No one was going to let me go un-laundried.  I so appreciated people making sure I was taken care of. 

Every day was a similar question about bathing.  When do you want to bathe?  They have two Japanese style public baths and it was quite the process to figure out when and which bath to use.  But, again, I was not going to go unbathed.  When I had to do laundry a second time, I didn’t ask, I just snuck off and did it.  There were rules about washing dishes – I figured those out by watching and mimicking.  There were rules about getting clean towels and turning in the dirty ones – I messed that up once.

One of my favorite things near the retreat center was a field (farm?) of azalea bushes.  During the first workshop there were some pink and some orange azaleas blooming.  By the second week, other shades of pink, red and white started to bloom.  Each day, there seemed to be more.  One day as I approached the azaleas I noticed them humming.  It seemed as if they were singing to me.  Of course, every bush was covered in happy bees and other pollinators.  It was actually the insects humming.  I decided not to walk through the bushes.

Bugs.  The forest is full of bugs.  Each day I tried to sit out in the sun after lunch.  Each day I went to the afternoon session feeling all itchy.  Inside the hall there are stink bugs – the prehistoric looking bugs that move v.e.r.y slowly.  There are spiders and ants inside too.  Each room had a small brush and dustpan for scooping up bugs and taking them outside.  There seemed to be less than I remembered last year so I was grateful for that.  There were some cool looking moths and butterflies too.  One night I was getting ready for bed and heard tapping on my glass door.  It startled me.  I looked out and saw a big green moth about four inches wide trying to get in.  I turned off my light in hopes he would find another better light to fly to.  During the second workshop there was a small room that no one was staying in adjacent to my small room.  There were at least four to five stink bugs in my room each night.  So when I went to take a bath, I would leave the light on in the empty room, turn my light off and open the door between the rooms.  It worked sometimes to draw the bugs out of my room .

And last, but not least – the bear.  A bear was seen in a nearby area, but not at the retreat center.  It still seemed to be close enough to be of concern.  And Japanese bears have been eating humans lately.  Huh? At dinner we had the bear talk – What to do if you came across a bear.  It appears you should curl up in a ball on the ground and cover your head.  I’m going to stick with the plan of walk slowly the other way.  We should avoid going outside at night or in the early morning.  The next afternoon I was sitting in the itchy spot and quite a few students were amazed that I wasn’t afraid to sit outside – what about the bear? 

That night I had to walk in the dark by myself to the bath house – remember Rraine will not go unbathed.  On my way back, only fifty feet from my building, I heard something large in the forest running, rustling the leaves.  Even though it was obvious from the sound that I scared it and it was running away from me, it startled me so bad I jumped and ran to the porch of the building .  So, my plan to walk away slowly didn’t work.

Overall, a couple of fabulous weeks in Japan.

Ooooh, Eeeeh?

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I noticed when a bunch of Japanese are sharing stories and a good part comes, they all react in unison.  It goes from one person talking to the entire group reacting with “oooooh”, the volume rising and the sound behind drawn out.  I imagined them all saying “wow” in unison, but long like “woooow”.  Then sometimes the reaction is “eeeeh?” with the sound of “are you kidding”? or “eeeeeh” with disapproval.  I almost laugh out loud each time this happens.  They become so animated and excited.  And how wonderful it might be to be the story teller and know everyone is so engaged in what you are saying.

I asked some of my Japanese friends about this and they didn’t know they reacted in unison.  “Oooooh” does mean like “wow” or “amazing”.  “Eeeeh” is used to mean different things and the tone changes based on the conversation.  It can be “What”?, “No way” or any other number of things.  It is used to convey surprise, shock, or disbelief.

Here’s a couple funny videos of some different ways to use Eeeeeh.

Earthworks Guesthouse

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In 2019, Peggy and I came to Japan for a workshop.  We stayed in a guesthouse in the town of Bessho Onsen near where the workshop would be held.  We loved the little hot springs town and our host was the best.

This year, we returned with Wendy and Sally.  They all stayed at the same place for a night before I got there and I joined them for the last night.  Our host was just as wonderful.  Rumi picked me up at the train station and took me to the guesthouse.  She had lunch reserved for us at a nearby restaurant.  The breaded pork cutlet was perfect.  We wandered around town.  The town was very quiet. After massages at the guesthouse we headed out for dinner which Rumi had also reserved for us.  And a last stop at the outdoor foot bath before settling in for the night.

Rumi is a pottery artist and the guest house is behind her art gallery.  Her husband does decorative iron work.  The guest house, rental cabin and beautiful garden in the middle are so artfully and thoughtfully decorated.  The gallery is full of special hand made things from her and other local artists.

Breakfast the next morning (reserved by our host) was at a small restaurant we had been to before where no one spoke English, but they were so happy to serve us.  Actually no one spoke English in the other restaurants either.  After breakfast, Rumi gathered with us in the guesthouse kitchen to make matcha tea for us.  She said it wasn’t an official tea ceremony, but taught us about the different elements of a tea ceremony and how to receive the tea and the sweets that were served along with the tea. 

After wandering around town some more, we were loaded into two taxis and taken to the retreat center.

Train Cleaning

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My train arrived, people got off and then it was announced that we had to wait while the train was cleaned.  Through the window, I saw the seats spin around slowly.  It looked like they were doing ballet, pirouetting around.  I saw no people.  I wondered if Japan had self cleaning trains.  Or were there tiny roombas zipping around the train that I could not see?  It was complete quickly and we were allowed to board the train. 

The second time I had to wait for a train to be cleaned, I did see a human walk through the train.  But, the seats did appear to dance and spin again on their own without help from the human.

So I did some googling and found these fun facts about Shinkansen cleaning:

It takes 7 minutes to clean the train – 1.5 minutes for trash collection, 30 seconds for seat rotation, 4 minutes for sweeping and wiping tables/windows, and 1 minute for a final check.

A single staff member is responsible for one carriage (up to 100 seats).

They use specialized equipment, such as a retractable broom and thermosensors to check for spills.

Unfortunately I didn’t get any photos or videos of the train being cleaned, but here is a train video and picture that I took for fun.

I’m Failing Sleep

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I didn’t sleep well for my first few nights in Japan.  Sometimes I have no problem when I travel, sometimes I am restless or wake up at weird times.  My watch records my sleep and when I get up I can see how I did.  The night on the plane I got a sleep score of 41.  Last night it was a 58, not much better.  I don’t really know how it calculates the score, but I’m obviously failing Sleep.  Then I look at my energy score and it’s in the low 80’s.  Huh?  Watch Math makes no sense.  I’m failing Watch Math too.

Failing Sleep was not great preparation for all the stairs.  My hotel was near a smaller train station with no escalators.  And if there were elevators, I missed them.  I saw the entrance to the station (all stairs) and went down to find my train on platform 2.  All I saw was platform 1 and no way around the tracks to the other side.  I walked around and it seemed the only solution was going to be going back up to ground level and finding another entrance.  Or I could get on the train going the wrong way for one stop and hope switching tracks would be easier at the next station.  I decided to go with Plan B, the possible no stair option.  The train pulled up to Platform 1.  I laughed out loud as the doors opened to a wall of people.  There was no way I was shoving myself, my big backpack and suitcase into that mess just to avoid stairs.  So I hobbled up a lot of stairs back to ground level.  As I looked around, I could see there were 4 entrances to the station, one on each corner of the street intersection.  I only knew the one I came up was wrong – I had a 2/3 chance of picking the right one.  If I was wrong, it would be another down and up of stairs.  Carrying my suitcase down was just as hard as up.  I crossed the street and went down again.  Success!  Platform 2!  The train was practically empty which was great too.

Even though my next station was bigger, there were still so many stairs.  I was getting more of an upper body workout than I expected.  I got near my next train early and sat at a coffee shop to cool down and enjoy an iced coffee.

This train was a shinkansen and wasn’t very crowded so I could relax before any more stairs might appear.

My last train was a small local train.  I heard it coming before it arrived.  I love the way the rails start to sing long before a train arrives.  A high pitched ringing, ping ping., the sound moving in tight waves along the rails toward you.  Then as it got closer, a cute, happy song played in the station to mark the arrival of the train.  It sounds like we might be in grade school, being invited to the playground.  The train is brightly colored and even has grade school drawings hanging up inside. 

The sounds don’t stop there.  The train sings the whole way to the town of Bessho Onsen.    As the train changes speed, the pitch of its song changes too.  There are many rural stops along the way with old wooden platforms and small stations.  It helps paint the picture that you are in the countryside.  As the train slows or sits at a station it sighs, moans and makes cooing sounds.  I’ve never heard anything like it.  After I looked it up, I learned it was from the air suspension system that balances the load of the train and its passengers.  It sounded like the train was talking to me.

I arrived in Bessho Onsen around lunch time, already exhausted, but happy to meet up with my friends.

Alley ATP

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I didn’t sleep well last night.  I was awake at 2:00am, 4:00am and gave up at 5:00am.  It’s making me question how good the expensive jet lag protocol I bought is working.  Hopefully that will set me up for some good sleep tonight.  I had emptied my suitcases last night in hopes to do a more logical packing job in the morning and getting some of the things out of my backpack that are making it so heavy.  Now I had lots of time for that. 

I found out Wendy is feeling sick and the girls asked me to find cold medicine.  I asked Google if 7-11s in Japan carried cold medicine and it said they did.  Great – there is a 7-11 two blocks from my hotel.  And I have time for that!  I found some vitamin C, but no cold medicine.  I asked the clerk and he told me, no.  He gave me the location of the nearest pharmacy.  It wasn’t open and wouldn’t be before I had to be on my way to meet the girls in Bessho Onsen. 

I re-packed and decided to check out of the hotel and make my way to the Shinkansen station.  I could find a coffee shop there and enjoy a latte while I waited.  I left the hotel around 7:15 and got a text.

I was supposed to have a session with an ATP client at 7:00am, but I forgot.  My client texted me to tell me he was on the call.  Oh no, I felt so bad.  I could have done it from my room if I hadn’t just checked out.  I jumped on the call from my phone and apologized.  I was on a busy street with a ton of loud traffic.  So, I ducked into the first alley I came to.  There was a small ledge running along one of the buildings about 1 foot tall off the ground. The ledge was clean and not quite wide enough to sit on.  I squatted down and squished my butt on the ledge and propped my phone up on my suitcase in front of me.

The alley was clean and quiet.  Everything in Japan is clean.  I can’t imagine squatting in an alley for a meeting in any other country.  A few people walked by, but the didn’t act like anything was amiss.  Just a foreigner doing a video call in the alley.

ATP is Awakening To Presence.  It is coaching how to live in presence.  Living in presence helps to let go of the stress and false stories most of us live from.

Ham Plate

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I found the train office in Tokyo and tried to get my future tickets printed.  For two of the tickets they told me they couldn’t print them and I could get them in Kyoto.  I wrote “get in Kyoto” across the receipt so I wouldn’t forget later when I got to Kyoto.  For the other one, the guy kept telling me I needed the QR code, but I never received the QR code and didn’t know how I was going to pull off getting one. I stepped out of line to see if I could figure it out on my phone. 

I did!  I found the QR code on the website I had ordered from.  I got back in line to get my tickets.  Then I was told I use the QR code to get on the train.  That was lost in translation before.  My trip from Akihabara Station to Tokyo Station, therefore, was completely not necessary, but I did feel slightly more prepared for those upcoming days.

Next order of business was to find dinner.  I walked out of the train station and then did a search for restaurants.  There was a brew pub near by.  At this point I had been up for 21 hours and was out of bandwidth to walk far, make decisions or eat strange things.  A brew pub sounded good.  Maybe I could get something easy and head back to my hotel.

I turned left and walked around the corner.  Oh, I went the wrong way.  I turned around and went the other way.  Very quickly I was going the wrong way again.  How did I miss it?  How was I so turned around?  Then I looked up – there was a set of stairs and some lights on the second floor.  The brew pub was on the second floor right above where I had come out of the station.  It was a tiny place with maybe room for 15 people.  The menu was very small, mostly snack items that were cold.  I was done and decided this wasn’t real Japanese food, but it was going to be just perfect because I was there and not extremely hungry.  I ordered the ham plate.  It had four types of ham and I washed it down with a ginger ale.  The formula for this is 21 Awake Hours + 12 hour flight + 3 Train Rides + 17 Train Tickets = Ham Plate.

Winning The Airport

On By rrainefioreIn JapanLeave a comment

It’s Sunday April twenty sixth, and I am sitting at the airport waiting for my flight to take off.  I’m headed to Japan again.  The last couple times I was in Japan, I wrote in the blog, and I think I will again. I have three friends that left a few days ago and are already there.  It will be fun to meet up with them and travel with them.

I bought new travel clothes before this trip.  I’ve never had “travel clothes” before.  Usually I just wear jeans, a t-shirt and a hoodie. I think a well fitting pair of jeans are comfortable, a t-shirt is comfortable if it’s too warm and the hoodie is essential if it’s cool. But I bought a matching pair of pants, tank top and long sleeve duster.  It doesn’t hide the belly as much as I’d like, but it’s supposed to be wrinkle proof and it’s fairly comfortable. 

For this trip, I am also trying a supplement kit and a tens unit that are both supposed to combat jet lag.  The supplement kit comes with supplements to fight inflammation and to help reset your circadian rhythm.  It also comes with blue light glasses and an app that tells you when to do what.  We went to Denver last night because there was talk of possible snow and if you have a morning flight, it is often easier to go down the night before and get a hotel than to mess with getting up 5 hours early and hoping traffic or weather doesn’t mess up your plans.  The jet lag app told me to go to sleep at 11:00, but I was tired at 9:00.  I forced myself to stay up, watching tv shows I didn’t really want to watch on the hotel room tv.  I spent a large portion of the night awake as I often do when not in my own bed.  Why do hotel rooms have so many lights?  People are here to sleep. 

I got up at 7:35am as my app told me to do.  I looked at my sleep data that my watch recorded.  I got a sleep score of 72.  That seems decent, but it didn’t feel decent.  It looked like I was awake most of the night from about 2:00am to 4:30am.  How is that not a lower sleep score?  Oh well, nothing to do about it now.

I put on my orange glasses that block out the blue light. I don’t quite understand that science.  I took my morning supplements and we headed out for breakfast.  When I got my coffee, I looked at the array of sugars and was instantly disappointed that there were no yellow packets.  I mentioned this and Richard looked at me like I was dumb.  They are right there.  Oh, yea, yellow glasses made the packets look white.  Then when I got my over medium eggs, I cut into the yolks and watched this off-white liquid run out.  Something’s wrong with my eggs.  That is not the color of eggs.  It had only been about 5 minutes since I couldn’t find the yellow sugar, but I had already forgotten about the glasses.  I took off my glasses and noticed the liquid was yellow.

After breakfast, Richard dropped me at the airport.  Have I mentioned before that I have a wonderful husband?  He didn’t have to take all this time to take me to the airport.  I took up half his day yesterday and will take up half of his day today. 

I found a bag tag kiosk and tried to print my bag tags.  It told me to go to the light blue area. I didn’t know what that meant and because of the glasses everything was red.  Nothing was blue.  I saw a different kiosk area and just decided to try that.  It was the right one.  Bags tagged and put on the belt in less than 5 minutes.

The pre-check line was longer than the other lines as usual – it kind of defeats the point of pre-check.  But, the lines moved fast – never stood still once.  While in line, I got 2 compliments on my cool glasses.  Huh, didn’t know being color blind with clip on orange glasses was fashionable.  The new-ish bag scanning equipment DIA has is slick and quick.  While I was waiting for my carry-ons to come out, the woman behind me commented that she loved my look, especially my outfit.  We chatted about where I was going.  She lived in Japan for a few years and was jealous I was going there.  She had loved living there. 

I arrived at my gate at 9:30am which was my goal time to get to the airport to begin with.  I got two more comments on my glasses in that short amount of time.  There was no line at the gate attendant so I went up and checked if there were any seats I could upgrade to.  There was and I could use miles to reduce the price.  I tried that yesterday and the website would only let me use money or miles, not both.  Great!  Now I look like I’m special and I will be sitting like I am special.  I also can go wait in the United lounge.  Even though the lounge is nothing spectacular, I think I am officially winning the airport!

Narita

On By rrainefioreIn TravelLeave a comment

The travel day from Takayama to Narita was a long day.  It was a rainy day so I had to walk to the train station in the rain.  I’m glad I brought an umbrella so I was dry, but my suitcase and backpack were not.  If it’s going to rain, I’d rather it be on a travel day.

The first train took me through stunning mountain forests.  It was hard to believe, but the train ride was more beautiful than the bus ride five days before.  I felt much safer than I did on that bus ride also.  The train was a hybrid train.  When the message board wasn’t telling us what the next stop was, it was telling us if the battery or engine was being used.

Then it was back to the bustle of city life.  The train station was busy.  It was a bit jarring to my system and I felt lost in the mix for a while even though I wasn’t lost.

The next train was another shinkensen.  I looked it up on maps while I was on the train.  By car, it would have been a 4.5 hour ride.  By train it was 1.5 hours.  The train would go somewhere between 127 and 186 miles per hour at its fastest.

Then I’m back in Tokyo and I needed to find my way to my hotel near the airport.  I didn’t have a dedicated ticket for this train so I went back to my prepaid city card.  I was wondering when it would run out.  It had run out.  I wasn’t sure how much to add to it so I found a ticket booth with a person instead of a machine hoping I could load it with just enough, but not too much. 

I got to the platform where I thought the train would be.  There was a train there that wasn’t marked and mine wasn’t due to leave yet so I made the decision that it probably wasn’t a good idea to get on that train.  Two more came that had destinations on them that I didn’t recognize so I decided to not get on them either.  A fourth train showed up, also unmarked.  I asked someone “Narita?” and they nodded.  So I got on that train.  I sat down and happened to sit in someone’s ticketed seat.  I moved to another car and once again chose a ticketed seat.  After changing several times I suspected I might have gotten on an express train and not the local.  I probably needed to pay more for the ticket.  So I stood in the area between cars hoping no one official busted me.  I mapped a few things and paid attention to the variable message signs about upcoming stops.  Oh crap, I was on an express train going to the Narita Airport with no stops in the town of Narita.  There was one stop before the airport so I scooted off there and started my navigation over.  This time it was more obvious that I was headed to the town of Narita.  Whew – possible crisis averted!

Walking to my hotel I rejoiced in the fact that I was almost done with walking all over Japan on uneven sidewalks with my suitcase.  I was bummed that shipping my suitcase never worked once when I was hoping it would work each time

After checking into my last tiny hotel, I headed out for dinner.  I found one close by that looked good – they were full and not serving anyone new.  This happened three more times before I found a place that would feed me.  This is a country with restaurants EVERYWHERE.  How do I find so many that won’t serve me?  Do I look menacing?  Are they really that full?  Nothing like having trouble finding food to make you want to go home.

I walked around the shopping street that I had read was a must-see if in Narita.  Most things were closed, but my flight wasn’t until early evening the next day so I knew I’d come back.

After breakfast (last breakfast miso soup), I checked out of the hotel and had them hold my suitcase.  I was too early for the shops, but there was a temple that was supposed to have beautiful gardens so I headed there. 

I passed several restaurants with very long lines outside.  Also outside was an assembly line of cooks, cutting something, skinning it, grilling it and then serving it to-go to the next hungry person in line.  I think this might be eel breakfast for business men?  Like the Japanese version of a breakfast burrito stand.  How do you eat eel on the go?  Later I searched online and found out that Narita is the place to go for grilled eel. 

I spent the rest of the morning wandering around the gardens at the temple, trying not to die from humidity poisoning.  Ok, so that’s not a real thing, but it felt like it was.  The temple and gardens were great.  The shopping street was fun when shops opened.  I bought some souvenirs.  I avoided eating eel, but later thought maybe I should have tried it.  For a girl that doesn’t like fish, there was a 90% chance I would not like it, but I could have been wrong……

Overall, a great trip to Japan, but always happy to go home.  I must still live in the right place!

Shirakawago

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Shirakawago is a farm village where they decided to preserve the heritage of the area and allow tourists to visit and learn.  Our guide told us that about 500 people still live there.  Some businesses had turned to tourism, but some were still farming. 

I had so much trouble booking this tour.  Most tours of this area left from cities other than Takayama.  Most of the ones from Takayama were a full day including a tour of Takayama.  There were two half days that I found.  One didn’t seem bookable and then this one.  I had to book for two people.  So after I booked it through Get-your-guide I informed the tour company that I was just one person.  They said it was ok to only pay for one so I contacted Get-your-guide to get refunded for one person.  After several calls and on-line chats, Get-your-guide cancelled both my reservations and said “Sorry, computer glitch, there’s nothing we can do.  You can book a different tour”.   I tried to book this one again, but it was still for 2 people.  I went directly to the tour company and booked (for 2 people).  They said if more people joined the trip, they would refund one.  That seemed fair.  The day before, I wondered with all that back and forth, where am I supposed to go to start the tour?  My paperwork said the tour started in Shirakawago which was an hour away. I thought I had a conversation about being picked up at my hotel.  I watched my nervous system ramp up with the uncertainty.  I sent them a Whatsapp message and an email.  I tried to calm down.  Trust, just trust.  Stop making drama where it doesn’t need to be.  Of course, I got a response later in the day that they would pick me up at my hotel and there were other people so I would be refunded for one person.  I know better than to worry about stuff like this.

The tour group was me, our guide and a family of 5 from Australia. We left Takayama at 7:30 and got to Shirakawago at about 8:30.  We toured the village and went into a home that had been turned into a museum so you could see what the homes were like.  It was a big home warmed by a central fire that was also used for cooking.  Smaller ceramic containers could be filled with coals to warm other rooms.  The family would live on the bottom floor, the staff would sleep on the second floor in low roofed rooms only big enough to sit upright, but not stand.  The top three floors would be for work.  The top three floors were now used to display farming tools, tools used to make the things they needed, clothing, snow shoes, kitchen wares, and tools used in the silk worm business.  Even standing there looking at it, it was so difficult to imagine that life. 

They have modern amenities now such as electricity, running water, and modern farm tools, but much of the village buildings are the same on the outside as they always were.  I also assume it is no longer the situation where forty people live and work in one house.

The thatched roofs are a special feature of the village.  The guide showed us pictures of the whole village working on thatching a roof.  The roof takes a full day to thatch and needs to be re-done every 30 years.  They also have a village fire suppression system where a siren will go off before the ‘sprinklers’ start.  The fire suppression system will shoot large jets of water into the sky, covering the whole village in water.  There were pictures to see this as a demonstration would not be a good idea.

We ended by walking up to a village overlook.  By the time we walked down, the village was completely covered in tourists.  We were so grateful to have arrived early when there were hardly any people.

After going back to Takayama, I wandered around town some more and went back to the same restaurant for dinner again. This time there was no line, but the staff was the same and the celebration of dinner was the same.  This time I got the beef you grill yourself over a hibachi grill.  It was worth it just for the staff’s description of how to cook.  “Ssshhhh 2 minute, flip, ssshhhh 2 minute, dip, eat, mmmmmm, ssshhhh, ssshhhh, dip, mmmmm.”