Diving

Yesterday and today I went diving.  Other than Chatfield Lake, I haven’t been diving in 6 years.  I was so excited!  Chatfield Lake is horrible and shouldn’t be considered diving.

I came diving in Thailand in 2005 and it was amazing.  At that time, it was the best diving I had ever done and has only been topped once since.  This was not amazing.  In fact, I am heart fully saddened by what I saw.  Most of the reef is dead.  I dove in a different place in Thailand in 2005, but I doubt it’s the location that is the problem.  I’m going to guess it’s all the divers, the snorkelers by the thousands, party boats, the tons of boats spewing oil into the ocean, the smelly water that runs in all Thai streets and the full moon parties.  In 10 years so much has been destroyed.  Will we have any live coral in another 10?

There were sections on each dive that had some good coral and aquatic life, and there were interesting things to see.  Saw seahorses, nudibracs, lobster, turtles, scorpion fish, eels and some puffer fish.  I only saw one lion fish and I remember seeing hundreds before.  It was still nice to be surrounded by water.  We saw dolphin today and were hoping to swim with them, but 2 of the snorkel boats kept chasing them and they left the bay pretty quickly.  I always love seeing them.

Yesterday I spent some time at the beach after diving.  It was so hot that I could only stay in the sun, out of the water for about 10 minutes before I thought I might have heat stroke.  So, eventually I gave up on a tan and hid in the shade.  But, here in a resort town, there are fruity drinks and ice cream to be found in the shade so it was a win win.  Since massage is cheap, that’s on the schedule each day too.  I do believe Ao Nang Beach has more massage places than any where else in Thailand and that’s a lot.

Today I had a contact fold in half in my eye before the second dive.  After much digging around in my eye, I couldn’t get it out. I gave up and dove with one good eye.  After diving, I tried to get it out, but no luck so I sat in a coffee shop in the afternoon and worked.  Then I got a foot massage.  Foot massage here means foot, leg, shoulders and neck, sometimes arms.  By the time I was done, I was so loopy I could barely walk.  My eye was so irritated that I could barely see.  I must have looked drunk leaving the massage place.  I managed to get some dinner and get a taxi tuk tuk thing back to my hotel.  8:30pm, I finally got the folded contact out of my eye!  Yay!

In most towns in Thailand there are songthaews that are used for cheap public transportation.  They are trucks with covered seats on the back.  Then there are motorbike taxis which are a dude with an orange vest on a motor bike.  There are tuk tuks which are a low vehicle big enough for 2-4 people, kind of like a golf cart but lower and with a faster engine.  Here they have motor bikes with a cart on the side that will seat 1-3 people.  It’s kind of like a songthaew for a motor bike.  I haven’t seen them elsewhere in Thailand.  I rode in one today. The driver did a fabulous squeeling u turn right before letting me out too.  I’ll try to get a picture of one tomorrow.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

Lost

I had an interesting thought today.  If, in my 20s, I had done what I’m doing now, people would say I was traveling and living abroad to find myself.  I thought, what an interesting twisted concept.  So many times I’ve heard people say they are taking time off to find themselves.  It’s self identification that is the source of issues.  And yet, finding oneself is often a lofty goal.  On many occasions, when people ask why I moved abroad, I said to shake things up, to get lost.  I’m trying to lose myself.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

Krabi / Ao Nang

Yesterday was my last day laying low in Jomtien.  I worked a little and had a late breakfast.  I debated having breakfast by the beach and spending the whole day there or near my apartment and going to the beach later.  I opted for later.  Good thing.  It poured rain for an hour or so and I was safely working in a restaurant instead of on the beach.

I was concerned about how I would check out of the apartment and get my deposit back since they were closed yesterday and wouldn’t reopen until after I had left today.  I tried to book a private taxi to Bangkok so I could leave later than the bus, but it would cost quite a bit more.  That didn’t work out so I bought a bus ticket anyway.  I decided to go call the number on the apartment rental office door.  As I walked by, one of the guys was in there and I told him my checkout problem.  He just came in to pick up something he had left and I was lucky to catch him.  I got checked out and got my deposit back.  How’s that for your “life takes care of me story” of the day?

I ran other errands like printing travel plans, getting a bus ticket and getting water.  That took up quite a bit of the day.  I spent a couple hours at the beach reading and then went to dinner with Chris.  I feel much healthier than when I arrived which is good because I already have a lot already planned and booked for the next few days – two days of diving and a day and a half of rock climbing.  I hope I have the strength after being sick and losing so much weight.  I’ve lost close to 15 pounds since I moved to Thailand and I feel like most of it is muscle.  Time to rebuild!

Today I left on the 7:00am back to the airport in Bangkok.  The 8:00 bus may have been early enough, but I just didn’t want to risk traffic.  The bus only went to one airport and of course my flight was out of the other one so I wanted to make sure I had plenty of time to get across Bangkok.  I took a taxi from one airport to the other and it took quite a bit longer than I would have expected.  Still, I got there way too early.  Then a flight to Krabi.  Another longer than I expected taxi ride and got to the guesthouse I’m staying at around 4:00pm.

Just the taxi ride to the guesthouse and this place is beautiful.  Why couldn’t I have been placed here?  I could live here.  It is quite touristy where I’m staying, but I’m a tourist for now.  I checked in at the guest house and then walked to the dive shop to check in.  After that I went to the beach (Ao Nang) just as it was getting dark.  I’ve been on vacation for over 2 weeks now and this is the first time I’ve felt like I’m on vacation.  Yay!  I’m on vacation!

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

 

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Rain outside, Rraine inside
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Jomtien Beach
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Airport Coffee Shop Selfie
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OMG – This is an actual salad in Thailand – Rare Sight

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View from my Krabi guesthouse room
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Ao Nang

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Look who’s on vacation

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Green lights from the squid boats
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Statue in front of a clinic

Sailing

Yesterday after a late breakfast, I went to the beach.  The beach here is much nicer than Hua Hin, but still not the clear beautiful water you expect of Thailand.  They had a bunch of chairs and umbrellas set up along the beach.  I wasn’t sure if I had to pay for the spot, but I ordered a coke at one and sat there for quite a while reading.  There was a wonderful breeze and the water was nice too.  Later I met Chris for dinner.

Today I met Chris for breakfast.  One of his friends said he would take us sailing sometime between 10:00am and 1:00pm.  It turned out to be 2:00pm so I did some printing of my upcoming travel arrangements.  I still find it easier to get to my hotel if I have a printed copy of the hotel info instead of handing my phone over to the taxi driver.  Then we went out for a sail.  It was nice to just be on a boat sailing.  I do feel a bit useless as I know nothing about sailing and couldn’t help with anything.  Brian was our captain, a nice Italian guy who grew up in Zimbabwe and married a Russian lady and now lives in Thailand.  Most of the talk of the day was about world issues and world economy, which I know nothing of.  It was facinating, but also hurt my brain.  Later, I got to meet Brian’s wife and two of his children.  His children are fluent in 3 languages, like it’s no big deal, especially his 3 year old daughter.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Better eat fast or ants….
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Check out this kid’s water gun backpack

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Jomtien

I went down to the lobby at 4:45.  One of the night guys was asleep on a bed behind the desk and the other was on a lobby couch.  I felt bad about waking them up, but the one on the couch hopped up and grabbed my bad and took it out to the taxi that was already waiting for me.  I think the Vietnamese people are easy to anger and have short tempers, but when they smile or are helpful, it feels so much more sincere than the Thai people.  My flight back to Bangkok was uneventful and it was the shortest wait I’ve ever had to get through immigration anywhere.  I said goodbye to Annaliese.  I felt a huge relief as I did.  Not that I was relieved to say goodbye.  She is a sweet fun person, but I realized I had taken on some of her energetic stuff (everyone has stuff).  With all that I am learning and the big wall I am coming to with the disintegration of identity, I think I took on some of her fear, making mine feel larger, a trick of the ego to keep me in fear so I won’t move forward in this process.  I know other people that feel the energies going on around them so strongly that it is overwhelming and they sometimes don’t know what is them and what is others.  I never use to think I did this, but now I’m realizing I do sometimes.  It just comes in more subtle and I don’t realize I’m taking on other energies right away.  When I do, I’m able to drop it quickly.  The relief I felt today was when I let her energies go and some of my fear went with it.

With a bit of difficulty, I found the bus to Jomtiem which is a couple hours south east of Bangkok.

Jomtiem is a beach area near Pattaya.  Pattay is a big beach destination for old white men and people wanting to get away from Bangkok.  When I first moved to Thailand one of my co-workers put me in touch with his brother-in-law, Chris.  Chris lives in Jomtien.  He was a huge force in keeping me sane when I first moved to Sam Ngao.  I would often call him after school when it was the middle of the night in the US.  I just told him I needed to speak and hear fluent English and it would set my brain right.  He’s a sailor and told me he’d take me sailing if I ever made it to Jomtien so I decided this would be a good place to relax between Vietnam and Krabi.

The bus dropped me off and I walked a couple blocks to the restaurant Chris was meeting me at.  It was nice to put a face to the voice.  I managed to eat a half a sandwich.  Yay!  He recommended an apartment complex nearby that rents rooms and has a pool so we went there.  There were several high rise buildings with plain looking apartments and a big pool.  On the bottom floor of each building is a row of plain looking businesses, Thai restaurants, small bars, places renting rooms and other things.  We went into one of the places renting rooms and booked a room for me.  It’s not the nicest place, but it’s on the 10th floor.  The rent was cheap enough and I have to pay for water and electricity when I leave.  I think I’d rather have a hotel, but I think this will do for 4 days.

I had told Chris I was sick and asked if there was a doctor he recommended.  He has and ear infection so he said he’d go with me.  We walked into the clinic and I told them what was going on.  I talked to the doctor for a while.  Her English was difficult to understand, but she seemed to understand me better.  She asked a lot of questions, took temperature, looked in my throat and nose.  She told me it wasn’t Dengue fever as if I was nuts to ask.  She said I’d be burning up and red if it was.  Then I got called back in for an injection.  The nurse put 4 or 5 things in the syringe.  I have no idea what was in the shot and I don’t much care.  Then she gave me a bag with 7 different drugs.  She gave me instructions on how to take them, but not what they were.  She said one was an antibiotic that would help with the sinus infection and stomach problems.  Again, I don’t much care what the drugs are if they work.  It all didn’t take long and cost me about $30.  Much cheaper than the US, but way more expensive than Sam Ngao.

After the clinic, Chris dropped me off at the apartments.  I went and got a foot massage at one of the places in the building.  It might have been the best foot massage yet.  Then I went to the pool and just sat in the water.  Finally, I was immersed in water.  The water was way too warm, but it was wonderful anyway.

I need to pay for wifi at the building and found out too late to pay.  The office was closed.  So, I ventured out for dinner and hung out in a sports bar until they closed, just posting blogs, putting more money on my Thai phone, making phone calls and catching up on email.  I ate a whole personal pizza.  I feel tired, but so much better.  Thanks mystery injection.

I found out earlier today that my mom’s husband is in the hospital.  He can’t keep food down and now isn’t very coherent.  I talked to mom tonight and she is ok, all considered.  I didn’t ask when he went to the hospital, but I can bet it was around the time I was in Hanoi processing about her.  I wonder why our medical system thinks radiation is a good alternative to cancer.  Most people I’ve known that had radiation died of radiation complications.  Why don’t we just try to make people more comfortable and let them go of cancer?  How did pumping someone full of poison become the solution to not die of cancer.  I guess it works for some, but I still think something is terribly wrong with our medical system.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

 

Tiny Tables and Chairs

I didn’t do much today either.  Slept in, had breakfast and walked around a little.  Then we stopped for coffee.  The coffee shops here are funny.  They only serve drinks.  They put tiny tables and chairs on the sidewalk and there are people sitting at them any time of the day.  A few had hookah pipes too.  I wonder how there are so many people not working, just sitting at tiny tables.  So we did the tiny table thing one more time.  I’ve spent the rest of the day in my room, repacking, working (engineering stuff) and looking for new flights.  The airline I booked my ticket to Krabi has staffing problems and canceled most of their flights, including mine.  I have to be up at 4:30am tomorrow so my plan is to sit in this comfy bed the rest of the day and go to bed early.  This may be the last soft bed I ever see in SE Asia.  Erin left today and I’m sad to lose her as a travel buddy.  She was delightful to travel with.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

Water Puppets

Not much happened today.  We slept in and had breakfast in our hotel.  The staff was just as happy about feeding us as they were about checking us in yesterday.  I was going to try to find a doctor today, but after talking to the hotel lady, decided going back to bed was a better idea.  She said most doctors don’t speak English and so most foreigners go to the hospital, but the lines at the hospital are so long that if you don’t get there at 5:00am you might not get seen.  Add that all up, I’ll wait until I get back to Thailand.  So we hung out in our hotel until 3:00pm when we set out to get tickets for the 4:10 water puppet show.  I’ve never heard of the art of water puppetry, but apparently, it’s a thing.  And it sounds like it originated here and the Water Puppet Theatre is famous so we decided to see a show.  They were sold out until the 8:00pm show so we wandered around until then.  The show was so interesting.  I’m not sure how to explain it.  Google Hanoi Water Puppet Show.  There was a live band of ancient Vietnamese instruments which was my favorite part.  They reenacted things like farming, chasing frogs and the dance of the dragons.  The puppets were in water and the puppeteers behind a screen manipulating the puppets with rods under water. The puppets were brightly colored and some had sparklers.  It was a fun show and I highly recommend you see a water puppet show if one ever crosses your path.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Entrance to a temple on the lake in Hanoi

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At the temple altar
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Temple altar

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Nightmares!

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Back to Hanoi

We came back to Hanoi today.  We had to leave the bungalows early in the morning and were shuttled from boat to boat until we were back on the boat we had stayed on the night before.  They did a cooking class on the boat, but I skipped it.  It will be a long time before I can look at Asian food again.  I just sat on the top of the boat feeling like death.  After the boat dropped us at the dock, we waited for a bus, then the long ride home.  The bus stopped at one of those rest stops with the store to buy local goods again.  This one was a madhouse with people everywhere.  That didn’t help me feel better – getting tired of people everywhere.  The hotel I booked in Hanoi is good though.  It was the most cheerful greeting I’ve ever received at a hotel.  One guy ran out into the street to get my bags, the lady at the desk knew who I was and the other lady was so happy, she must have been coated in candy.  On the way to dinner a lady carrying food in baskets over her shoulder walked up to Erin and put the thing on her shoulder and then demanded I take a picture.  She wouldn’t take it off Erin and Erin looked like she was going to drop it any second.  I took a picture and then the lady tried to sell her fruit.  When Erin refused, she demanding money for the picture.  Erin gave her a tiny tiny amount of money which pissed of the lady and we hightailed it out of there.  After dinner, Erin and I decided to get body scrubs.  The guy in the spa must have gone to the same hospitality school as the lady at our hotel because he was so happy to tell us about the spa.  I usually love body scrubs.  This one was brutal.  There was nothing gentle about the lady who did mine.  It was like a sports massage with salt.  I had to look down several times to make sure I wasn’t bleeding.  But, at the same time, I was happy to have a layer of skin removed.  I felt like it was removing Sam Ngao, months of sweat, strange housemates, Hanoi and this sickness.  And nothing else matters except that the bed in my hotel room is soft.  I didn’t think there was such a thing in SE Asia as a soft bed.  If I could put this bed in the bungalow, I’d never leave.  Time to hit it!

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Yes, that boat is named Hung Long….

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Bungalows

Another early morning.  Breakfast was at 7:00am.  Then they took us to a pearl farm.  This was fascinating.  They take one oyster, cut 30 strips of muscle from it (yes, that oyster dies).  They have small balls made out of crushed up pearls (slightly larger than a grain of sand).  They use the muscle strips to attach the small pearl balls in 30 other oysters.  Then they put the oysters in nets and hang them from buoys in the water.  Years (9 or more?) later they open them up and see what pearls they created.  Some real small percentage still create “perfect” pearls.  I’m not much of a pearl person, but they had so many beautiful colors in the shop.  Black pearls are a deep blue.  There were green, pink, white and the yellow or gold were my favorites.

Then we went back to the boat and checked out and got on another boat.  The boat ride took quite a while and we picked up other people and went through an area tighter with little rock outcroppings.  It’s so beautiful, but it was still foggy so the pictures don’t do it justice.  Then you look down at the green water an it’s so full of trash.  It’s such a shame.  One of the world’s prettiest places with trash everywhere.  We passed tons of floating shacks on the water.  They all looked so run down and dirty.  I just kept reminding myself that my house in Sam Ngao is worlds better than that.

The boat finally pulls up to a tiny rock/island with 20 or so bungalows on it.  It’s right out of a travel magazine.  This will be our home for the afternoon and night.  The room was very basic, but the views stunning.  It was quiet with no tv or wifi.  Can I just stay here forever?  After lunch I wanted to go swimming, but it was rainy and just a little too cold.  I just feel like I want so badly to be immersed in water.  Plus, I kept remembering how the water looked not too far away.  So I walked a little on the tiny beach and then took a nap.  After dinner we played cards which was real nice.  In a world with parties and bars and constant internet, I forgot how much I love sitting around playing games and just enjoying the company of others.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Pearl Farm
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Pearl Farm
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Bouys with oysters below them waiting years to be brought back up

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Tiny temple on a beach

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Floating home
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Floating home
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Making my house in Sam Ngao look awesome
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What?  This is where we are staying?

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Hello

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Halong Bay

Today we got up early to get on a bus to Halong Bay.  The bus didn’t come on time and then later we found out they had messed up the dates of our bus pickup so someone came in a taxi and drove us to the bus.  I thought that was interesting.  The bus ride was over 3 hours long and had a rest stop along the way.  The rest stop was a warehouse sales place where they were selling stone statues, embroidery, clothes, lacquered items, jewelry and other locally made souvenirs.  They had some food and drink too.  It was a zoo of people.

One of the interesting facts that the tour guide told us was that Hanoi had a population of 9 million people and 6 million motorbikes.  That seems to match what I experienced.

When we got to Halong Bay, that was a zoo of people, buses and boats.  We got on a boat that took us to another boat.  A ton of boats left the harbor around the same time.  Not quite what you see in pictures.  We checked into our room on the boat and had lunch.  There was so much food it was ridiculous.  Most of it, I wasn’t sure if I would be able to hold it down or not.  After a while, there were less boats around us.  It was beautiful, but so foggy that you couldn’t see far and all my pictures look unimpressive.  We went to Cat Ba Island and went in a cave.  There are supposedly tons of caves in the area, but not too many open to tourists.  Then we had time to kayak.  They gave me a kayak that was way too big for one person so I gave up after about 5 minutes.  Dinner was the same as lunch – so much food and I barely ate any.  There were 24 guests on the boat and for the most part, it was the most boring group of people I’ve ever met.  Since I felt so bad, I decided to go to bed after dinner instead of “partying” with the rest of the boat.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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There are green trees, I swear
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Love Love the little furry fruit (Lychee?)

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