Invisible Moose

I was awake at 6:30 this morning.  For anyone that knows me, that is “roll over and go back to sleep” time.  I am not a morning person.  But, I had the thought that if I wanted to see animals, this might be a good time to get out of bed.  I peered out the window and instantly saw 4 moose on the other side of the lake.  They were standing in chest deep water just munching on water plants. 

One of the smaller moose started running (swimming fast?) creating a small white v of water around it as it picked up speed.  The moose behind him suddenly perked it’s head up and watched this with great interest.  I assumed this was the mother, thinking “Oh dear god, why is he running, where is he going now?”  He just kept going so soon the mother was running after him to close the gap between them.  They created ripples on the lake.  It wasn’t so much a wave or a change in the lake’s surface.  I was more like a subtle color change just below the lake’s surface.  The color change radiated out from them and swept across the lake toward me in the low morning light.

After they got closer to the other two moose, they slowed down.  But, wait, now I only see 3 moose.  Where did the fourth one go?  The trees come right down to the edge of the lake.  There doesn’t appear to be a shore.  The trees appear to be growing in the water and then continue up the hillside densely packed in.  It doesn’t look like anyone could walk in between the trees especially something as large as a moose.  But, he was gone.  I watched as one of the other moose walked closer to the trees.  In front of my eyes, his front legs and head went invisible.  Then the rest of him flickered out as well.  I strained to see if what I thought was a tree was indeed a moose leg.  No, just trees. 

I was so enthralled watching the moose disappear that I never saw the third moose go invisible, but he was now gone.  Only one moose remained.  Right on cue, he flickered and disappeared as well. 

What a show!  I went back in my room for coffee.  After pouring a cup of coffee, I looked out the window and saw something else thrashing about in the water.  Ooooohhhh, maybe this was a bear swimming in the water?  I rushed outside again.  It was hard to tell what it was.  I used my phone zoom to help me see, but that wasn’t helpful either.  The zoom just made it closer, but blurrier.  I know bear eat fish out of rivers.  Do they catch fish in lakes?  It looked like a bear with a fish in it’s mouth.  Does it count as having seen a bear if you can’t actually identify it as a bear?  Then I think, if that looked like a fish when I can’t tell if it’s being held by a bear, then that would be the largest lake fish known to man.  My mind is playing tricks on me.  After watching it some more, I think it was a moose swimming in deeper water.  As it swam closer to the invisibility trees, it of course, disappeared.

I went in and out of the room several times to warm up.  Each time I would look at the lake, the moose would be in a different location.  Sometimes there was just one, other times two.  Sometime it would look like a log, other times a moose.  The two white swans were still on the lake, but very calm this morning – nothing to honk about this morning.  Quite a few other water birds were floating about. 

Yes, the pictures are blurry. I have just my phone with me. The moose were way over there. That is often the case with moose. They are usually way over there. This is both good and not. It is good because way over there is safer for me. But, that means you get blurry pictures.

Toad River

I slept hard and was awake at 6:00am. No need to stay here any more. I packed up quickly. Since I slept in my clothes from the day before, I figured what’s the harm in one more day in the car in the same clothes? I put on my shoes and went to the restaurant to get my free made-to-order breakfast. Maybe that would be the silver lining of the Travelodge. It wasn’t. It was made to order, just not to my order. Oh well, better get on the road.

Today’s drive I start on a section of highway that is quite remote and uninhabited. I’d read about it on line. There is much written about this section of road and the lack of services. There is at least one gas station, maybe two on this stretch of road. There are a couple of campgrounds and 4 or 5 lodges. The truck will not make the stretch of road without stopping at the one gas station, Toad River Lodge. That gas station also has a restaurant, lodge, campground and cabins. I booked a cabin on a lake. It looked like a lot of campground cabins, very basic. But, the view of the lake looked awesome. It is only a 7 hour drive today.

Most of the drive was in the foothills, lots of trees and rolling hills. Only the last 2 hours was on the lonely stretch of road. I filled up the gas tank in Fort Nelson. I also filled up a gas can in the back of the truck just in case. As I left Fort Nelson, it started to get more mountainous. This is more the terrain I was hoping for. The road was fairly empty at this point also which was nice – no more needing to pass cars. I was so excited to just sit by the lake. Along the drive I saw quite a few Moose crossing signs, but no moose. At one point I saw a sheep crossing sign and it was flashing. I came around a tight corner and they were just jumping off the highway mere feet from being hit by a truck coming the other way. They jumped vertically in the air and cleared the guardrail with very little effort. I would have loved to watch them longer, but this was not an area to stop.

My cabin is very basic, no frills. But it has a bathroom, is clean and doesn’t smell bad. First thing I did was take a shower and put on clean clothes! Something so simple yet it successfully erased last night and and put me back where I should be. I’m on a solo adventure to see beautiful things. Clean clothes and a burger in belly does the soul good. I am so fortunate in life. I let a hotel room fog that knowing. Now, I’m back in that knowing. After an early dinner, I sat on the porch of my cabin. The wooden chair is not comfortable, but I don’t care. It’s almost 8:00pm and the sun is dipping away. It’s getting quite chilly, but I don’t care. The air is fresh. The lake is glassy. The huge puffy clouds over the mountain are backed by orange glow. There are elk in the grassy meadow on the other side of the river. Earlier there was a large log in the river and I marveled on how I often look for moose and only find logs. Now, there is no log and everyone that walks by asks if I saw the moose earlier. There are two white swans that keep floating around and then getting all excited. When they get excited, they honk and fly back the way they came with their wings slapping the water loudly. I’m just sitting here listening to their honking as it echoes off the hills around me.

Many Animals

Day 2 of driving to Alaska was almost the same as Day 1. Very little trees, mostly wide open spaces. There were mountains from time to time, way off in the distance – so far off that they were just shadows, suggestions. There were more small towns and farms than the first day which helped break up the vast grasslands. There were more cars on the road which actually was not a plus. I hate passing on 2 lane highways, but had to often.

Both days I saw an alarming number of dead dear on the side of the highway. I know deer or elk crossing the road at dusk or night is a concern where I live. Still, I’m not use to seeing this many. There must be so much wildlife roaming these plains. Today, many porcupines were added to the death toll. I’ve never seen a live porcupine and after today I’ve seen way too many not alive.

Of the live animals, there were many many cows. Still quite a few baby cows – I like seeing those the best. I also saw a sheep farm. It went by too fast for me to get a picture of. But I rolled down the window and Baaa’d at them. I saw antelope – one actually on the pavement. So glad he didn’t try to cross in front of me. I saw a bald eagle on top of an electrical pole. I saw many other suicide birds. I didn’t hit any, but they tempted fate hopping across the road or flying low in front of me. There were also prairie dogs. I saw at least 10 of them sitting upright with their little arms up in front of their chest just watching me drive by. They didn’t move – almost looked like statues.

I got to the Canadian border in the afternoon. I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’ve driven through once before and only remember that it wasn’t much. I should have stopped at the rest stop I saw just before the border. I hoped it wouldn’t take long and that there would be another rest stop on the other side. I only had to wait for one car in front of me. The immigration officer was nice, asked the usual questions plus the “are you bringing _____ in” questions, looked at my passport and sent me on my way. I stopped for the obligatory photo of the “Welcome to Alberta” sign. I wish I had taken a picture of the Wyoming and Montana signs also when I passed them, just for completeness. Oh well, not going back for those.

Shortly after the Alberta sign, I saw a dinosaur. Well, if there is a dinosaur, I’m sure there is a restroom in the building next to it. That was one animal I was not expecting to see on the journey. There was a restroom and just in time! There was also a small museum and a tourist information center. I walked through the museum quickly and saw a bunch of taxidermy animals. The list of dead animals is now way longer than the list of live ones for the day. I have no idea what my animal count is now up to for the day.

I finally get to Calgary. I use to own a truck for many years. I am quickly reminded how much fun it is to drive and park a truck in a city. I will be in Calgary for 3 nights. Since I managed to wedge the truck in a parking space in the garage, I think I will leave it there until I leave Calgary.

After checking in to the hotel, I wandered around Calgary for a bit. I was surprised how warm it is. Isn’t is supposed to get colder the farther north you go? I found the river walk, a nice bike/walking path along the river. There were people just floating down the river in pool rafts, paddle boards and kayaks. There were people everywhere enjoying bikes, scooters or just walking. I went by Olympic Park where there was a Pilipino festival going on. I saw multi colored ground hogs here. I also saw Jolliebee. I’ve never heard of Jolliebee before and had no idea Jolliebee was such a celebrity, but when he was announced, the crowd went wild. He danced to some hip hop music and the crowd lost it. I didn’t get any pictures of Jolliebee because my jaw was on the ground as I stared in amazement.

After leaving the festival, I heard live music somewhere else so I followed it. It was a busker right near my hotel. I found myself on a walking street (no vehicles). I walked several blocks looking at all the restaurants and bars with street side seating. They were all packed with people. The city was alive with energy and people out and about. I always love the energy of a city. The energy of all the people, the excitement, the love, the joy and even the sadness grows and becomes more than the sum of the parts, becomes something different, something all it’s own.

After a bit I decided I had walked more than enough. It’s been only a little over 3 weeks since I had ankle surgery so maybe I should have walked a little less, but it was difficult not to keep going around the next corner to see the thing over there. I found a steak restaurant (duh) for dinner and then went back to my room to ice my ankle.

No Trees

I kind of knew the first day of driving to Alaska would be a long barren drive.  It was.  Knowing it ahead of time doesn’t make it not mind numbing.  The first couple hours weren’t too barren as I was heading north through Colorado, through Grand County and Jackson County.  It is a very uninhabited part of Colorado, so there was not much traffic to deal with. 

Slowly, the mountain terrain turned more to hilly grassy terrain with little to no trees.  Only 3 hours in, and it felt like a whole day of no trees.  No trees, no towns, nothing.  More nothing.  Hey!  Look at that – nothing!  Thank god for the invention of audio books. 

Windmills, more windmills, and windmills as far as the eye can see.  The windmills at least add some interest to the treeless hills.  I’ve driven by wind farms before.  Every time I do, I am amazed again by the shear size of them.  They are so tall and each blade so long and sleek, spinning very slowly as if there isn’t a care in the world. 

Four hours in and not a tree or town in sight.  Rolling endless hills of brown grass.  I started wondering if I would see a gas station or restaurant before Montana.   Four hours into the day – only 4.5 more hours of barren brown.  Finally, I saw a restaurant next to a gas station.  It was just in time for lunch.  It’s a diner that serves breakfast all day – score.  I ordered a breakfast sandwich that comes with a side of peaches.  I love peaches, and it’s peach season, so I was excited.  My breakfast was delivered and I almost cried.  It was canned peaches.  I forgot that canned peaches exist and didn’t think for a second that would be what I got.  People eat these….on purpose?  I haven’t had canned fruit since I was a kid.  Maybe I remembered them wrong.  Maybe they were good.  NO.  They taste nothing like a peach to me.   The sandwich was good and redeemed the meal. 

Back to driving.  Back to listening to Dune Messiah.  Finally, I got to the Welcome to Montana sign.  I should have taken a picture.  Somehow, I thought the terrain would change.  It didn’t.   Still no trees all the way to Billings.  Nine hours after starting, I arrived at my hotel.  Overall it was a good day, a good book, a good truck, a good sandwich, good driving time, no wind, and no rain!

The truck I’m driving is all decked out in camouflage seat covers.  After an exciting dinner at Applebee’s, I decided to girl up the truck a little. I found a furry steering wheel cover with bear ears.  The bear and I will head out tomorrow morning – Calgary bound.

One Girl, One Truck, 3118 Miles

I haven’t written in a long time! But, this might be interesting to write about.

My friend moved to Alaska. A couple of weeks before she had to leave, the company that they were going to ship their truck through canceled on them. She posted on Facebook, “Does anyone want to drive our truck to Alaska”? Um…. yea…. I do. Several of my friends had the same thought, but I guess I had the thought sooner. As luck would have it, I happened to retire from my engineering career yesterday so I have some time on my hands. I leave tomorrow on a sure to be delightful road trip, just me, the mountains and the road. I have some fun excursions planned for the trip. This seems like a wonderful way to celebrate the end of a career and the beginning of a new life unknown. Goodbye to the old me and hello to whatever is to come, whatever is already here that I haven’t discovered yet.

Home

January 4th was a long day.  I keep trying to calculate the number of hours in the day because it fascinates me.  I think it was a 44 hour day.  I left Auckland at 3:00pm and arrived in Denver at 12:30pm.  I went back in time.  So cool.  We humans just made up time.

I remember sitting in the airport texting my friend who was going to pick me up in Denver.  I told him I might cry a lot.  I started crying just from typing the word “cry”.  I’m crying again, now because I typed the word again.  I can’t even tell you why I’m crying.  I’m not sad or happy.  I don’t feel any of the “normal” emotions.  I think it’s just a nervous system reaction to massive change.  It is also a physical recognition of the enormity of what I have done and am doing.

I tried to sleep on the plane, but I was so physically uncomfortable that I maybe slept an hour at best.  I watched 4 movies.  On the flight from San Fran to Denver I was able to rest a little as I had all three seats to myself, but I was aware of where I was and how uncomfortable I was the whole time, so I wouldn’t call it sleep.

Jay picked me up at the airport and brought me Deana’s snow boots and a winter jacket.  I cried less than I thought I would.  It’s so cold.  It was dark, gloomy and -10 degrees.  I miss the snow and cold, but my body isn’t ready for this.  After we got to their house and had some food, I set out to get my phone fixed and make my car legal to drive.  The scariest part was driving on snowy roads and remembering to stay on the right side of the road.  I only messed up once and it was in an empty parking lot entrance so no one noticed.  Over $500 to renew the car tags, including a late fee.  Ouch.  The phone is done.  I have insurance on it which means I get a used phone for free.  (It only took a day to get the “new” phone and it looked like it had never been used).  I did laundry and tried to separate things I would need from things that need to go in storage.  By the time I went to bed, I figured I had been up for 33 hours.

I slept for 9 hours when the alarm went off.  I felt like I should get up and do things.  Then I decided that I should not get up and do things.  I slept for 2 more hours.  Doing things proves to be difficult.  I spent a lot of time standing in the middle of all my stuff, feeling lost.   I got my “new” phone and went to lunch.  I was going to grocery shop, but that seemed an insurmountable mountain.  Plus it’s so cold outside.  I napped.  I did manage to separate most of the stuff for storage.  I feel lost.  I feel like I should do things, but I don’t know what to do.  I don’t want to do anything.  I have a headache that won’t go away – altitude?

I took my car to the mechanic’s to fix anything wrong with it.  The person who leased it did not take care of it.  We are up to $1,000 worth of fixing so far – new tires, new keys, fix hatch back, oil change, fix alignment, etc.  Hopefully there isn’t anything else wrong with it.  Next week I’ll get the interior detailed because it’s just yucky.

I got a lot of “welcome home” messages on Facebook.  I don’t feel like I’m home.  Everything feels familiar, but not home.  It’s not a negative thing.  It’s not like home is good and not home is bad.  Same thing with “lost”.  Lost is not a bad feeling, but a detached feeling.  I didn’t expect that it would feel like home.  I feel like I’m waiting, waiting to know what is next, waiting for reverse culture shock to work it’s way through, waiting to adjust to the time/temp/altitude changes, waiting for all the to-do’s to be done, and waiting to not be lost.  I know home is not actually a place, but is me.  Me is in a major change pattern right now.  I imagine with some time and further integration of all that’s happened lately that I will feel home.  So, I wait, standing in the middle of a ridiculous amount of useless stuff wondering what to do next and wondering why I have so much stuff.

A few people have asked if I will continue my blog.  I think I will.  I think there will still be amazing and silly things to write about.  There are quite a few blog posts I started in the past that I hope to finish.  Some things are difficult to put into words and I hope to find the words.  I think that the integration of this past year will also be worth writing about.  After that, I might change the tone into more of a weekly meditation/investigation tool for those of you reading so you can participate more actively through your growth and learning, instead of just a ride along with my journey.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Brrrrrrr

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1:00pm so dark

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Starting the unpacking / repacking

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Break for Margaritas

One Final Tour

 

There is this bug that glows in the dark and lives in caves.  They call them glow worms, but they aren’t worms.  I booked an all day tour to go see the glow worms.  It was a big bus tour and that just made the whole day slightly disappointing, but I still got to see glow worms and sheep!  It was a 13-hour tour and there wasn’t one interesting person on the bus except the bus driver, Rachael.  I’ve attached a video.  Getting on the bus was a bit stressful.  I arrived at the bus station where there were a bunch of tour buses and people, but none of the buses had the name of the tour company I thought I booked with.  Later I found out they are all the same company with different names.  The lady in the office said I needed to check in with the lady by the buses.  There was a sea of confused tourists and somewhere in the middle of that sea was a lady with a shopping cart of fruit and a list of names.  She gave me some fruit, gave me a sticker and told me which bus to get on.  Ah, the sticker people tracking system.  So simple and yet quite effective.  I’m a green sticker for the day.

It was a 3-hour drive to the cave.  Rachael told us all sorts of information about New Zealand along the way.  I was actually a little bummed that I couldn’t stay awake for all of it.  I think she talked the whole 3 hours.  The cave tour involved a lot of information on how they found the cave, a little information on the glow worms and a quick, but beautiful boat ride through the cave.  No one is allowed to take photos so the one I posted is from the internet.  All the Japanese (half the bus) were late so we got to the farm late.  I assume their translator did a bad job of telling them when to be back.

The Agrodome farm was fun though.  First they showed us how to sheer a sheep.  I’m not sure how I feel about this.  Then they showed us how a dog herds sheep.  I don’t think I liked this part. It’s one thing to herd sheep because you need to, but another thing to stress them into running around a course because 53 tourists want to watch.  I did kinda like the part where one of the sheep tried to be all tough and face off with the dog and stamp its foot in protest.  “Fuck you, we did this yesterday and I don’t like you”.  Then we went on a trailer pulled by a tractor around the farm.  We saw at least 7 different types of cows, pigs, turkeys, pukekos, goats, deer, sheep, and alpacas.  Then we got to feed the sheep.  The tractor stopped and sheep came from everywhere.  It was a fantastic mess of sheep and squealing Japanese.  I could have watched that for hours.  I got to pet and feed sheep.  I was a happy 6-year-old!

The last stop was the Te Puia.  We were here in the 18-day tour, but I chose not to go.  It’s a thermal park / cultural center.  First off was a Maori concert.  It was similar to the dinner we had gone to on the tour, but just the singing and dancing part.  Then we had a tour of the thermal park.  I had my fill of people touching me and crowding me so I skipped out of the tour and walked around on my own.  There is a geyser there.  It didn’t go off while I was there.  I wish I had had more time to walk through the park.  A long ride back to Auckland and Rachael decided to not talk so people could sleep.  I was ready to stay awake and take in all the knowledge Rachael had to share.  Darn, I did that wrong.

Today, I’m going to take it easy, get some work done.  Tomorrow I get on a plane to go back to the US.  It doesn’t seem real.

Interesting facts:

Glow worms are not worms, but the larvae of a type of fly.

Glow worms glow so that insects will think that is the way out of the tunnel and then get caught in their feeding lines.

The first glow worms to hatch eat the others.

A sheep shearer makes $2 per sheep

2 dogs can handle 800-1000 sheep.

The sheep get sheared every 6 months.

Lanolin is sheep oil – their wool is oily – maybe not news to you, but it was to me.

There are Angora Goats – again, maybe you knew this, but I always thought it was a type of rabbit.  There are angora rabbits too.  Learning new things.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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End of Tour

Our last full day on the tour we went to an old Chinese settlement.  It was from the gold rush days. Apparently the Chinese were allowed to come over and mine, but only mine claims that had already been mined.  They weren’t allowed to live in the English settlements so they created their own settlement.   After that we went to ride bikes on the Otago Central Rail Trail.  It was a nice, easy, pretty ride on the trail of an old railroad.  The tracks are gone.  We only did a 2 hour section.  The overall trail is longer.  We stayed in a tiny town with an old hotel.  Most of the group was very unhappy with this.  They made us sit outside for dinner since the bar was crowded with other guests and townspeople.  Some of the people were talked to or treated like they were teenagers or second class citizens.  I didn’t experience this, but that’s what they were talking about.  The dinner wasn’t very good.  Most of the group was upset that our last dinner together and was so disappointing.

 

Our last day we went back to Christchurch. On the way we stopped to see Moeraki Boulders, large round rocks on the beach.  They were pretty cool.  I can’t quite explain them so if you want more info, see this:  http://www.moerakiboulders.com/

A lot of people on the bus were sick, theory that it was the horrible dinner from the night before.  I was glad I had chosen the vegetarian option.  We got to the ghost town, I mean Christchurch early evening.  Since the tour was over for me, I stayed at an airbnb.  It was luxury to have my own room with a double bed!  I got a bus back downtown and went out to dinner with a couple of the people from the tour.  We walked around the deserted ghost town of Christchurch.  At one point we heard music coming from a small alley.  We walked into the alley and it opened up into a courtyard with 4 or 5 restaurants and some live music.  Since we had already eaten, we walked through the alley coming out the other side into the ghost town again.  I wonder if all the people of Christchurch are hanging out in tiny hidden alleys all over the city.

I left way too early in the morning for my flight back to Auckland.  I just wanted to stay in that comfortable bed for another few hours.  Joel picked me up from the airport.  We found a place to picnic for dinner, wandered around town, shopped for food and checked me into the new airbnb.  Another night with a double bed in a room of my own – Aaaahhhhhh.  For New Year’s Eve we had a picnic with a couple people from the tour, watched a comedy show and then watched fireworks at midnight.  It was a very pleasant New Years Eve.

Today was a chill day of working and doing laundry.  Went to dinner and wandered around Devonport and Silo Park in Auckland.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Bowls?

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Queenstown Birthday

Morning on the boat was beautiful.  The clouds came in low covering the tops of the mountains, but it was quite peaceful.  The water was like glass.  At breakfast, they announced the sighting of penguins.  I LOVE penguins.  I looked and saw them, but all I saw was a black thing in the water way off in the distance.  You couldn’t tell that it was an animal, much less that it was a penguin with a yellow tuft of feathers over its eye.

Then off to Queenstown.  Queenstown is known as the Adventure capital of New Zealand.  They are famous for skydiving and bungee jumping.  We have three nights in Queenstown.  How great to stay in one place for three nights!  First they took us to Peter Pans Tours to book any activities we wanted to do.  This was the most disorganized tour company.  The lady helping us would ask a question and then completely ignore the answer.  They were obviously only interested in getting our money and getting us out of there as quickly as possible.  Six of us signed up for Canyoning and they couldn’t even tell us which company we were booked with, what day, or what time.  We would get an email later that would tell us.  Later that night, we still didn’t have the email and the shop was closed.  Our tour guide got a hold of the guy from the shop and he agreed to meet us at a local bar and bring us the information.  He was, of course, an hour late.  But we finally got the information.  We spent way too much time in a backpacker bar.  I am so not a backpacker.  We finally went to a bar with live music which I enjoyed much more, but a few in our group couldn’t wait to go back to the backpacker bar so they could have cheaper beer and Jagger bombs.  I stayed up long enough for midnight to celebrate the beginning of my birthday and then off to bed.

The canyoning tour was fun.  We put on thick wetsuits and harnesses and walked through a tight canyon.  We rappelled or slid down waterfalls along the way.  It was only for an hour or two, but just the perfect amount of time.  Four of us went out for a nice Italian dinner and drinks at a rum bar – no Jagger bombs in sight.  Then to another place with live music.  It was a wonderful adult evening.

The last day in Queenstown, I spent wandering around the town.  A few of us went to do the Luge which is similar to an Alpine Slide, but instead of a concrete luge track that only one cart can go down, it’s more like a go cart track.  We went to Ferg Burger which is supposed to be the best burger place in the world.  I don’t know how you get that reputation.  There was always a line out the door and down the block.  The line was shorter when we went and it didn’t take too long to get our burgers.  It was a normal burger with a huge bun and a lot of goop on it.  It was good, but I don’t get all the hype.  However, I don’t get all the hype about burgers anyway.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore