Tree Top

Yesterday I hired a driver to take me around and see interesting things.  The hotel/villas I’m staying at helped me set it up.  Most of the drive was on part of the Holy Fucking Shit Road that I drove in on a couple days ago.  It was nice to be a passenger in a proper vehicle and for it to not be raining.  By the light of morning, it’s still a scary road.  This time when we rode on the top of the ancient crater, I could actually see the lakes below.  It was so beautiful.

We went to the botanic gardens.  They have a zip line ropes type course there that I wanted to do, but I only had flip flops on and you have to have closed toed shoes.  The gardens were huge.  It was more like a giant park with some gardens here and there inside.  It was big enough that we drove around and then got out to see certain things instead of walking.  One of my favorites was a fern garden.  Since ferns are thought to have been here since prehistoric times, the building that housed some of the ferns was in the shape of a dinosaur.  The gardens were wonderful.

Then we went to a spice market.  At first, I almost said no to the market, but then decided spices would make a good gift to take back to the other teachers at Sam Ngao so we stopped briefly.  Spices are not cheap.

Next was Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, a temple on a lake.  I have seen pictures of this one and was excited to see it.  If you’ve ever seen a picture of a Bali Temple, it was probably this one.  It’s on their 50,000 rupia bill.  It was crowded with people, of course.  It was beautiful to see, although it was not in the middle of nowhere as pictures I’ve seen made it seem.  It was in the lake, but not far off shore.

Then we made our way back up the HFS Road.  I asked if the driver knew of a good place to eat lunch.  He took me to his friend’s place.  It had an eating area overlooking one of the big mountains and the valley below it.  This might be one of the best restaurant views I’ve ever seen.  Then to top it off, there were hundreds of dragon flies buzzing around and very cool breeze.  I was almost cold by the end of lunch.  Such a great feeling after being hot for so long. I’m posting a short video of the dragonflies.

The last stop of the day was the Munduk Waterfall.  Why do all trails to waterfalls go down first?  You want to hike up first, then your reward is a waterfall to cool off in and an easy hike back down.  It doesn’t work that way.  At least it’s not too hot at this altitude (3000-4000 feet).  On the way up we got to one spot where some bugs were calling out so loudly it sounded like a cross between a squeaky swing set and a 5 alarm nuclear melt down.  I’m posting the video just so you can hear the sound.

Then back to the villas.  I just sat by the pool and read the rest of the day.  I sat and talked to a nice lady that works at the villas for a while.  I’m the only one here tonight.  That’s kind of a weird thought.  It seems so deserted.  The really loud frogs from last night are not even making noise tonight.  But, I can hear the tokay off in the distance and there are lots of other sounds of nature out there.

Two nights ago, I looked at flights back to the US thinking I could spend a week with Mom before I had to go back to school.  Flights were over $3,000.  What is going on?  That is ridiculous.  I may never be able to come back.  I battle back and forth between feeling like I should go back and I’m supposed to be here (Asia).  Going back for a week won’t accomplish much anyway.  It’s a more permanent decision, not a temporary, one week decision.  I felt quite at peace most of the day although I haven’t made the decision yet.

Today I had to take the POS up the HFS Road again, part of the way.  It was better than in the rain, but still quite a challenge.  Twice a car in front of me decided to stop on a steep hill.  Twice I had to back down to a less steep portion because it was just to steep to get up in 1st gear from a dead stop.  There’s no way to pass as the road isn’t even 2 lanes wide – more like 1.5 lanes wide.  It’s like if you paved the road to my house and then hit the edges with a jackhammer, and then threw 70 vehicles, 100 motorbikes and 10 dogs on it.

I went back to the botanic gardens to do the Treetop Adventure Park.  It had 7 different courses involving zip lines, rope nets, wooden bridges, swings, and other difficult things to traverse.  I did 3 of the courses.  During the second one, I was behind a big family who was much slower than me so I had to wait a lot.  Then I heard this loud noise like an airplane was coming down the hill.  It was rain.  We watched in horror as it came down the nearby road and picnickers fled to their cars.  There was nothing we could but watch it approach.  There was no way down from the trees except to finish the course we were on.  It dumped and I couldn’t go any faster than the group in front of me.  By the time we finished I was soaked to the bone.  At that point, I no longer care.  There’s something uncomfortable about watching the rain come and the process of getting soaked when you didn’t want to.  But, once the soaking is complete, it’s no longer uncomfortable. Maybe it takes that long to stop thinking “oh no, not rain” or maybe you can’t get any wetter so you give up caring.  I had lunch and when the rain stopped, I did one more course.  This last course had a part where you clipped into a rope and then swung Tarzan like to a large rope net.  Then you had to climb the rope net.  I turned into a girl and decided I didn’t want to do it, but there was no other way down.  The workers below kept encouraging me.  I kept saying “I don’t want to”.  I don’t know this girl.  Who is she?  Where did she come from?  I finally did it and it was ok.

I’m now in Ubud.  Going to dinner with my friend Gwin tonight.  My half sister, Carly gets here in a couple days.  It will be nice to have company.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Really?  Graffiti on cactus?

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No bare feet on the cactus.

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Tree Top Adventure
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Tree Top Adventure
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Tree Top Adventure

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One Angry God

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HFS Road
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HFS Road
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HFS Road
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HFS Road

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The villas

Jungle Rice Field

Today I had booked a tour through my hotel.  It didn’t turn out to be a tour so much as it was a 15 year old kid leading me through the jungle to see a waterfall.  I wanted to see the waterfall and some rice terraces and that’s what I got so it was ok that it wasn’t a tour.  The waterfall didn’t seem to have any way to it other than the tiny trail we took and there was no tourist parking lot and no other people so that was cool.  The rest of the walking was beautiful too.

I can’t remember if I wrote about this before or just thought about it.  When I was in Vietnam and got sick, I didn’t want to eat.  Part of it was because everything made me feel bad, but part of it felt like my body wanted to fast.  I’ve never fasted before and I know that if you fast for more than a few days your body starts to heal things and it becomes like a full body reset.  I felt very strongly like my body wanted to reset, but because I was traveling, I felt scared to fast.  Since I didn’t have time to exercise for a few months before I left the US, I haven’t exercised since I moved to Thailand, and I was sick for so long, I’ve lost a lot of weight and it’s mostly muscle.  My arms and legs are super tiny.  For whatever reason, I’m still holding some fat in the belly just in case?  I don’t feel overly concerned about it though.  It kind of feels like a reset, like I’m down to muscle ground zero, and when I start exercising again, I’ll start re-growing muscle from a reset place without all the old stories I use to carry in my muscles.  I’m not sure if that’s even possible, but that’s what it feels like.  I count the tiny walk I did today as the first day of new muscles.

After hiking I went to the pool.  It was sooooo delightfully cold.  I tried to work on lesson plans and some engineering work, but the wifi here is so spotty, I didn’t get as much done as I hoped.  I changed into the room I booked.  It’s huge.  There is a queen bed and a twin in here.  The balcony is bigger than the entire room I had last night.  It overlooks the rice fields and has a rushing creek behind it.  It has a roof that is open where the roof meets the wall so I’ll be one with the bugs again!

I took a class at the hotel in making offerings.  They weave intricate baskets and decorative things out of palm leaves, then put flowers and other things in them and use them as offerings.  It’s like paper cut out snowflakes meets origami.  So, one lady who didn’t speak English tried to teach me how to make them.  Another lady joined in.  If I didn’t get it right immediately, the second lady would take it from me and do it.  I’m not sure if it was really difficult or if they were really bad teachers.  Considering I am quite artistic, I’m going with bad teaching.  It basically became an exercise in watching them make things and then decorating them with flowers.

Now it’s dark and I’m sitting in my giant room.  The amount of things out there calling to each other is ridiculous.  I assume the really loud ones are frogs, but I am not sure.  This is the noisiest place I’ve ever been.  I grew up in Florida on a marshy creek and there was never this much going on at night.  There are at least 20 different bug/frog sounds, the stream behind my room, a cat with a lot to say, random motorbikes, and off in the distance, a gong.  But, so far, no tokay!

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Cloves

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Coffee

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HFS

Sitting at breakfast looking out to the ocean.  It’s not hot – it’s overcast and there’s a nice breeze.  At some point I change my focal point and notice the there are a bunch (100 or more) dragonflies buzzing around a few feet above the black sand.  It looks like a miniature helicopter fly-in.  Fascinating.

So, I remember thinking the other day that I hope I don’t have to drive the POS in the rain.   After breakfast, I packed up and checked out of the wonderful little hotel in Amed and started the journey to the next place.  The plan for today was two waterfalls and an overlook into the crater of an old volcano which is now a lake.  On the way to my next location in the mountains.

First waterfall at Les was easy to find.  The last bit of road had me questioning if I was lost, but I wasn’t.  A guy helped me park and then said I could pay 20,000 to go see the waterfall or 70,000 and he’d go as a guide.  70,000 is around $6 so I took the guide option.  He told me all about all the plants growing that we passed as well as other tidbits of Bali information.  The waterfall was beautiful.  I wish I had brought my bathing suit, but waded in the stream until the mist cooled me off.

Then I started heading up into the mountains and got google maps back on line for the next waterfall.  Google maps lied.  It lies a lot.  It was starting to rain and the road was quite steep and narrow so I decided to not try to turn around and go back for the waterfall.  But 15 minutes past where google maps would have me go there was a sign for the Gitgit waterfall so I didn’t miss it after all.  The entrance fee for this one was way more and I almost turned around.  But, I put on my rain jacket and went anyway.  It was rushing brown water and extremely loud.  It was eerie and dark in the canyon.  I put some of Scott’s ashes in the waterfall.

Now it’s raining harder and google maps decided not to map the next location.  Google maps will still show me where I am, just not where I’m going.  So, that should still work, but it’s annoying.  The road got narrower and steeper and the rain got harder.  I had to drive with the windows open most of the ride to keep the window from fogging.  At least the windshield wipers worked.  I turned on the lights, but have no idea if they were working or not.  In a lot of places it wasn’t wide enough for 2 cars and the oncoming cars would be over the centerline.  Sometimes the road was crumbling away on one side or the other.  Then the POS started singing a horrible screeching song in 1st or 2nd gear, but I refuse to go fast enough downhill to use 3rd.  Every other switchback is some horror or another.  I must have the world record for the most times anyone has said “Holy Fucking Shit” in a two hour period.  In Colorado there is a road between Idaho Springs and Central City called the “Oh My God Road”.  The road from Gitgit to Munduk must be named the “Holy Fucking Shit Road”.  I got to the overlook of the first lake.  There should also be a hot springs nearby, but there is no way I am looking for a hot springs right now.  My fingers are freezing because it’s cool at this altitude and I have had the AC blowing full blast and the windows open to try to keep the windshield from fogging.  A hot springs actually sounds great.  It’s raining so hard, there is no crater lake view to be had.

I finally drive down some side street forever into the middle of nowhere and find the villas I am staying at.  Everything in the area looks run down and deserted.  I hope the villas exist.  It’s far enough away from the village that I won’t be walking into the village later.  I find the place and someone comes out with an umbrella and helps me with my suitcase.  I walk into the reception / open air restaurant area and see that there are a bunch of buildings surrounding terraced rice fields.  What?  My villa is in the middle of a rice field.  It’s beautiful.  They bring me coffee and a snack.  Then they tell me the garden (rice fields) room I booked won’t be available tonight, but they will move me there tomorrow.  The room they give me for tonight overlooks a small waterfall.

The wifi sucks.  The dinner was fabulous.  I signed up for a tour and a class tomorrow.  Right after the sun set the rice fields and area around came alive with sounds I’ve never heard before.  Probably frogs and snakes and bugs.  It’s creepy and wonderful all at the same time.  I came back to my cute little room above the rushing waterfall.  The water is so loud, but I can still hear some of the chattering sounds outside.  My door is slatted so I get to live with the bugs.  I put bug spray on after my shower just to be safe.  Then I heard the very loud unmistakable sound of a tokay.   It sounds like he’s in my room.  My room is slightly less wonderful now.  I guess it’s training for going back to Sam Ngao.  After moving most of the furniture to check behind it and use it to stand on to see up high, I have determined that the tokay is not in the room.  He must be outside by the window or on the thatched roof.  I’m not going outside to confirm that.  I’m just going with that story.

The wifi sucks here so not all my pictures uploaded.  I’ll try in a few days.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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