Travel Days

I took a bus from Tak to Chiang Mai on Wednesday.  The people in the Tak bus station were rude again.  I’m glad this will be my last Tak bus station experience.  While sitting at the bus station, I could see the news on tv.  There was coverage of the Loi Krathong cleanup.  I’m not sure where the cleanup was happening, but it was heavy equipment pulling buckets and buckets of krathongs out of the water and putting them in trash trucks.  Even though the materials are all biodegradable, they aren’t going to degrade for a long time and they are still a massive amount of trash in the water.

I got to Chiang Mai and checked into my hotel then went to By Hand Pizza for my last dinner in Thailand.  I had friends that were in Chiang Mai for the festival and they suggested meeting for the parade.  Chiang Mai canceled the festival, but it sure didn’t look like it.  There were a ton of people lining the road.  I found a place near one of the floats and texted my friends where I was.  Then the parade started and I discovered I was standing next to a float that wasn’t moving and the parade was happening on the other side of the float.  All I could see was the tops of white glittery floats.  All the floats were ornate white glittery things with the picture of the King on them.  I couldn’t see anything that was happening in between the floats, but I’ll guess it was people dressed all in black.  I looked around me and it was 90% tourists, not many Thais at all.  This didn’t surprise me, but it just felt wrong.  They played the King’s song and no one seemed to notice – how would they – they were all tourists like me.  I started crying.  This isn’t a Thai festival.  It’s a tourist show.  This isn’t how I want to spend my last night in Thailand.  I couldn’t find my friends and standing in a crowd of people crying and watching a parade I can’t see makes no sense.  So, I left to get a massage.  I found my friends later.  We wandered for a while and then went to a roof top bar.  It was a fun bar, but hot and smoky.  I didn’t stay long because of the smoke.

Thursday morning, I went and got a healthy breakfast with fresh squeezed juice and a bowl full of healthy granola fruit and other superfood stuff.  I tried to find a hotel in Indonesia.  The lady at the dive shop had said I shouldn’t book ahead, I could just do it when I got there and it would be cheaper.  But that makes me uncomfortable so I thought I would at least look at the options.  I wrote down the names of the places I liked.

In the afternoon, I went to the airport.  Now I’m traveling with two suitcases.  I know I will have to pay extra for the extra suitcase and I’m not looking forward to dragging two through airports, but I don’t see much way around it.  It cost me $175 for the extra suitcase.  Oh my god I feel violated.  It was very confusing that I had to go through the international terminal for a domestic flight to Bangkok.  I’m still at the check in desk when my flight should be boarding.  The lady said I had plenty of time.  I go through immigration and get to the gate and no one is there and there is nothing written on the gate sign.  There are a bunch of other confused people on the same flights so I figure I’m in the right place and somehow it will work out.  Thailand magic, it does.  The flight was delayed so I wasn’t late to the gate.  They put stickers on our shirts, put us on a shuttle bus and shuttled us to the domestic flight.  Now, I will have less than an hour to make my connection in Bangkok with only a sticker on my shirt to claim I’ve already been through immigration.  This would never work in America.  I get off the plane and there is a lady holding a sign with the same logo as my sticker.  The sign also has two flights written on it with the gate number.  One is mine to Jakarta.  The sticker gets me easily into the international terminal and I’m at my gate 5 minutes before it boards.  Thailand magic.

I remember 10 plus years ago I was sitting in an airport in Taiwan waiting for my connecting flight to somewhere.  I had a 6 hour layover and couldn’t leave the airport because I didn’t have a visa.  I watched movies and listened to all the flight announcements.  I distinctly remembering that I heard flights to Jakarta being announced often.  I remember thinking that Jakarta seemed like such a worldly and exotic place, like people more well-traveled than me would go there.  It felt like, you haven’t really travelled until you’ve been to Jakarta.  I knew nothing about Jakarta.  I still know very little about Jakarta.  But, I’m going there and even though I will never leave the airport, I feel much more worldly now.

I watched a movie and two Discovery shows on the plane.  The Discovery shows were great.  Both were about subjects I am naturally interested in and I felt like they were reminders to me of what I need to be doing.  One was called “Predict My Future”.  It was about an on-going study called the Dunedin Study.  They have followed a group of 1,000 people since childhood and kept extensive medical, psychological and sociological records on them over the years.  The study group is in their 40s now.  A lot of what they discussed is how our childhood shaped our adulthood.  It didn’t go into the spiritual side of things, but I bet there is data on that as well.  They barely scratched the surface on the amount of data collected, research done and learning gained from this study.  As I watch it, all I can think of is ATP.  It’s time to make the transition into doing ATP for a living.  I have no idea what that looks like, though.  By the end of it, I’m crying.  The other documentary was about how horrible sugar is.  Duh, don’t need to convince me.  But, I liked the way it presented the information simply.  It’s also time to get back to eating healthy.  That documentary was called “Is Sugar the New Fat?”.

Links to the videos if you are interested:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5541030/

http://www.sbs.com.au/ondemand/video/506986051805/is-sugar-the-new-fat

Jakarta had the fastest immigration ever.  There were no lines and I was through in under 3 minutes.  I found the airport hotel pretty easily.  The staff was very nice.  The rooms are above the terminal so I heard ding ding ding for hours as announcements were being made below me.  The lady at the dive shop that I’ve been emailing told me hotels were easy to find and cheaper in person so I didn’t need to book one ahead of time.  I thought I’d try this because I was pressed for time and because why not wing it and see what happens.  I looked at some of the hotels on line a couple nights ago and found a couple that looked ok.  By the time I got to Jakarta I was not ok with winging it.  I don’t have a place to stay, I don’t have a plan and I’m not happy about it.  My whole body is tight, not that it wasn’t already, but this has definitely added to it.  I stayed up late looking at hotels.  The two I liked were already booked.  Literally every other one on line either had horrible reviews or was over $150 per night.  I contacted two, one through their own website and another through airb&b, gave up and went to bed.  Thank god the ding ding ding had finished for the evening.

I got up early and looked at my emails.  I guess when I had hit the button that said “make booking inquiry” I had really made a booking through airb&b.  I was just trying to ask some questions and was going to book one of the two places this morning.  So, I guess I inadvertently made a decision.  There were several emails back and forth as I was getting packed up.  Some didn’t quite make sense, but I figured I’d work it out when I got there.  I figured I just had to go downstairs to check in, but left extra time for dealing with the possibility of extra suitcase drama.  Wow – so glad I left extra time.  I was in Terminal 2 and my flight was leaving from Terminal 3.  The hotel had a free shuttle and everyone was very helpful.  Terminal 3 is really far away.  It took over 15 minutes of drive time.  Terminal 3 is a big bright shiny new terminal – very worldly indeed.  I only had to pay $25 for the extra bag this time.  That’s more reasonable.  Right before I got on the plane I figured out why the hotel emails were weird.  I was emailing both hotels thinking it was only one.  I almost had booked two hotels.  The guy at the other hotel was not too happy about my mixup.  I got to Labuan Bajo just fine.  The guy picking me up from the airport was late so I had to deal with pushy taxi drivers for a while.  No matter how many times I told them someone was picking me up, they kept wanting to know where I was going, who I was waiting for, what’s my name.  If you were the person picking me up, you would know that.  I finally told one where I was staying and that someone was picking me up.  He actually called the hotel and put me on the phone.  The hotel is asking why I called.  I didn’t call you, the taxi driver thinks I’m stupid and that he’s going to harass me into his taxi.  My ride finally came.  Labuan Bajo is not worldly.  It makes rural Thailand look worldly.  It reminds me of the rural parts of Bali where there is one tiny broke down road in town.  The road is lined with small hotels and scuba shops with 8 or 9 restaurants and some shops.  I can see why all the hotels had such bad reviews. Nothing in this town is up to western standards.  My room is ok.  It is real basic.  It has wifi that doesn’t really work, air conditioning that doesn’t really work, hot water for 1.5 minutes, a lot of stairs, a decent restaurant and a very loud water pump behind my room that squeals every few seconds.  It’s costing me $41 per night and is probably worth $8.  But judging from some of the other places I walked by, I’m doing good.  Every hotel review I read complained about the 4:30am wake up call from the nearby mosque.  I already heard the evening call to prayer and it is insanely loud so there will be no escaping 4:30am.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Parade Float
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SkyLanterns

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Shoes Off + Bar = Bad Idea

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Labuan Bajo Airport
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Labuan Bajo Airport
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Labuan Bajo

Photo Fest

Got up yesterday morning ready for a day of “relaxing” Thai style.  I decided to eat my salad for breakfast since I’m sure breakfast will not resemble breakfast.  Noi told me “No.  There’s breakfast”.  She left for breakfast pouting.  I went down later to get coffee.  I had some toast too.  I was right though. The choices for breakfast were toast, boiled rice or fried rice.  I’m still just shocked at the amount of rice consumed here.

The resort we are staying at is pretty.  It has lots of little statues everywhere.  I think this is a common Thai thing.  Some of the statues should be re-painted or trashed as they have fell into great disrepair.  This seems to be a common Thai thing too.  A lot of things seems to not have the proper cleaning, upkeep, repair or maintenance.

After breakfast it was photo fest.  Photos on the stairs with the sheep.  Photos by the phone booth.  Photos photos photos.  When you take a photo, you have to have everyone in it if you can.  Then you have to know what to do with your hands. When I got to Thailand, the thing was to do the peace sign next to your face.  That is still an acceptable pose, but isn’t the “in” thing anymore.  Now, it’s tiny hearts.  You put your first finger and thumb together as if you are holding a tiny heart by the point.  Or, at least that’s what I think they mean by tiny hearts.  And jazz hands seems to be making a comeback.

We got into vans and went up Doi Inthanon.  Doi Inthanon is Thailands highest mountain.  The top is at 8415 feet elevation.  Our resort was near the base of the mountain.  There were many flower sellers at the gate to the park.  You could buy flowers to give as offerings at the temple at the top.  It cost 300 baht for foreigners to get in and 50 baht for locals.  The van struggled going up.  Everyone in my van opened the windows to feel the cold.  They were oohing and ahhing at the cold which wasn’t actually cold yet.  Then we came upon a heavy mist.  Then the temperature dropped.  The temperature at the top was 48 degrees and the mist never let up.  I was soaked by the time we were done with the photo shoot up there.  The top was had a gift shop, a small shrine and a walkway.  Then we drove a short distance to the temple which was two pagodas and some gardens.  I think there was a great overlook too, but there was too much mist to see anything.  More photos. I’m angry with Teva.  They use to make the most wonderful shoes.  This last pair I bought has tried to kill me so many times.  The slightest wetness and they become so slippery.  I barely made it down the pagoda steps.  Your prices went up, but your quality went down – shame on you Teva.

After Doi Inthanon, we went to a market that had some fresh food, but mostly dried fruit.  Then it was off to The Royal Agricultural Station.  It is this huge complex of mountain side greenhouses and farms.  A very small part of it is like a botanic gardens that you can visit.  It was beautiful.  The temperature was still cool and the sun was shining again.  There was a cool breeze.  It was peaceful.  I took a ton of photos of flowers.  Can I just live here?  I don’t want to leave.  But, I didn’t have a choice in the situation so we took the vans back to the resort to get on the bus.  Next stop was another market.  I’ll call this one pork rind market.  More pork rinds than I thought physically possible.  There were also vats of things that looked pickled but smelled like death.  I stayed at the market for 2 minutes tops.  I couldn’t handle the smell.

Then we went to the previous School Director’s house for a party in honor of the teacher who is retiring.  As the bus turned on to the tiny road it took down at least 5 powerlines and just kept driving.  Local Thai roads are called Sois and are the width of an alley.  I couldn’t drive a bus down one of these.  This was one of the nicest houses I’ve seen in Thailand and it still had an outdoor kitchen.  It was small by USA standards, but the nicest place I’ve seen since I’ve gotten here.  People were already singing karaoke when I got there.  They couldn’t have gotten there more than one minute ahead of me.  They must have made a bee line for the karaoke.  Yes, it was karaoke on the bus up to the party too.  The only time there wasn’t karaoke was during the speeches and photos.  There was a tray of hors d’oeuvres brought out.  One of the items was sliced century eggs.  I’ve read about these and seen them at the market.  I haven’t had the nerve to try them.  Now they were sitting in front of me.  Now was my chance to try a slice and not be committed to the whole egg.  The preserve the egg for weeks or months in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime and rice hulls.  The white of the eggs turns to a dark brown translucent jelly.  The yolk turns black, brown and orange.  I stared at them for a least a half hour.  In the end, I chickened out (pun intended).  I did not eat the century egg.  The dessert was the one where they put jelly, fruit, pinto beans and ice in milk.  I don’t get it.  Someone asked if I wanted a whiskey – yes.  They kept my glass full.  Noi had 2 glasses and was all red faced and said she felt tipsy.  She couldn’t figure out how I seemed normal when I had 3 glasses.  I laughed.  I’m sure I had at least 8. Granted, they are the smallest glasses known to man and she’s half my size.  It just made me tired.

There was an awkward conversation where one of the teachers asked me why I wanted to leave.  How do I explain that I am tired of living in that house when hers is probably not as nice as mine?  How do I explain that I’m tired of being left in the dark about everything?  How do I explain that there’s nothing to do and I have no social life?  I tried to explain that I worked all the time and was lonely.  Not sure if that was a good enough explanation.  If I had felt more welcome back in February, maybe things would have gone differently on that subject.  I don’t feel unwelcome here, but I don’t feel part of the community either.  Yes, I enjoyed the weekend, but come Monday I know it will be back to working constantly.  And the next time they get together to have a meal or watch tv or do whatever it is people do here, I won’t be invited.  What do they think I do in the evenings – hang out with my other 40 friends?

Back on the bus – karaoke all the way home.  I think we probably had 8 hours of karaoke today.  I know why I dislike Thai music.  It all sounds like karaoke music.  Thai music and karaoke sound like a 13-year-old just got electronic keyboards for Christmas and composed 400 songs.

Today I had been invited to go to another district to watch teachers set up for some conference.  It was going to be all day and evening.  Tip had also invited me to hang out with her.  I decided to do laundry and hang out with Tip.  Then when I contacted Tip, she was busy doing homework.  So, what did I stay home for?  I would have been exhausted if I had gone to the set up thing, but I still wish I had gone.

Ok, here is only a small selection of photos:

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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This statue will give me nightmares

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Noi and Chelon
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The one in red is Hipster Zero

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Thompien

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