Travel Days

I took a bus from Tak to Chiang Mai on Wednesday.  The people in the Tak bus station were rude again.  I’m glad this will be my last Tak bus station experience.  While sitting at the bus station, I could see the news on tv.  There was coverage of the Loi Krathong cleanup.  I’m not sure where the cleanup was happening, but it was heavy equipment pulling buckets and buckets of krathongs out of the water and putting them in trash trucks.  Even though the materials are all biodegradable, they aren’t going to degrade for a long time and they are still a massive amount of trash in the water.

I got to Chiang Mai and checked into my hotel then went to By Hand Pizza for my last dinner in Thailand.  I had friends that were in Chiang Mai for the festival and they suggested meeting for the parade.  Chiang Mai canceled the festival, but it sure didn’t look like it.  There were a ton of people lining the road.  I found a place near one of the floats and texted my friends where I was.  Then the parade started and I discovered I was standing next to a float that wasn’t moving and the parade was happening on the other side of the float.  All I could see was the tops of white glittery floats.  All the floats were ornate white glittery things with the picture of the King on them.  I couldn’t see anything that was happening in between the floats, but I’ll guess it was people dressed all in black.  I looked around me and it was 90% tourists, not many Thais at all.  This didn’t surprise me, but it just felt wrong.  They played the King’s song and no one seemed to notice – how would they – they were all tourists like me.  I started crying.  This isn’t a Thai festival.  It’s a tourist show.  This isn’t how I want to spend my last night in Thailand.  I couldn’t find my friends and standing in a crowd of people crying and watching a parade I can’t see makes no sense.  So, I left to get a massage.  I found my friends later.  We wandered for a while and then went to a roof top bar.  It was a fun bar, but hot and smoky.  I didn’t stay long because of the smoke.

Thursday morning, I went and got a healthy breakfast with fresh squeezed juice and a bowl full of healthy granola fruit and other superfood stuff.  I tried to find a hotel in Indonesia.  The lady at the dive shop had said I shouldn’t book ahead, I could just do it when I got there and it would be cheaper.  But that makes me uncomfortable so I thought I would at least look at the options.  I wrote down the names of the places I liked.

In the afternoon, I went to the airport.  Now I’m traveling with two suitcases.  I know I will have to pay extra for the extra suitcase and I’m not looking forward to dragging two through airports, but I don’t see much way around it.  It cost me $175 for the extra suitcase.  Oh my god I feel violated.  It was very confusing that I had to go through the international terminal for a domestic flight to Bangkok.  I’m still at the check in desk when my flight should be boarding.  The lady said I had plenty of time.  I go through immigration and get to the gate and no one is there and there is nothing written on the gate sign.  There are a bunch of other confused people on the same flights so I figure I’m in the right place and somehow it will work out.  Thailand magic, it does.  The flight was delayed so I wasn’t late to the gate.  They put stickers on our shirts, put us on a shuttle bus and shuttled us to the domestic flight.  Now, I will have less than an hour to make my connection in Bangkok with only a sticker on my shirt to claim I’ve already been through immigration.  This would never work in America.  I get off the plane and there is a lady holding a sign with the same logo as my sticker.  The sign also has two flights written on it with the gate number.  One is mine to Jakarta.  The sticker gets me easily into the international terminal and I’m at my gate 5 minutes before it boards.  Thailand magic.

I remember 10 plus years ago I was sitting in an airport in Taiwan waiting for my connecting flight to somewhere.  I had a 6 hour layover and couldn’t leave the airport because I didn’t have a visa.  I watched movies and listened to all the flight announcements.  I distinctly remembering that I heard flights to Jakarta being announced often.  I remember thinking that Jakarta seemed like such a worldly and exotic place, like people more well-traveled than me would go there.  It felt like, you haven’t really travelled until you’ve been to Jakarta.  I knew nothing about Jakarta.  I still know very little about Jakarta.  But, I’m going there and even though I will never leave the airport, I feel much more worldly now.

I watched a movie and two Discovery shows on the plane.  The Discovery shows were great.  Both were about subjects I am naturally interested in and I felt like they were reminders to me of what I need to be doing.  One was called “Predict My Future”.  It was about an on-going study called the Dunedin Study.  They have followed a group of 1,000 people since childhood and kept extensive medical, psychological and sociological records on them over the years.  The study group is in their 40s now.  A lot of what they discussed is how our childhood shaped our adulthood.  It didn’t go into the spiritual side of things, but I bet there is data on that as well.  They barely scratched the surface on the amount of data collected, research done and learning gained from this study.  As I watch it, all I can think of is ATP.  It’s time to make the transition into doing ATP for a living.  I have no idea what that looks like, though.  By the end of it, I’m crying.  The other documentary was about how horrible sugar is.  Duh, don’t need to convince me.  But, I liked the way it presented the information simply.  It’s also time to get back to eating healthy.  That documentary was called “Is Sugar the New Fat?”.

Links to the videos if you are interested:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5541030/

http://www.sbs.com.au/ondemand/video/506986051805/is-sugar-the-new-fat

Jakarta had the fastest immigration ever.  There were no lines and I was through in under 3 minutes.  I found the airport hotel pretty easily.  The staff was very nice.  The rooms are above the terminal so I heard ding ding ding for hours as announcements were being made below me.  The lady at the dive shop that I’ve been emailing told me hotels were easy to find and cheaper in person so I didn’t need to book one ahead of time.  I thought I’d try this because I was pressed for time and because why not wing it and see what happens.  I looked at some of the hotels on line a couple nights ago and found a couple that looked ok.  By the time I got to Jakarta I was not ok with winging it.  I don’t have a place to stay, I don’t have a plan and I’m not happy about it.  My whole body is tight, not that it wasn’t already, but this has definitely added to it.  I stayed up late looking at hotels.  The two I liked were already booked.  Literally every other one on line either had horrible reviews or was over $150 per night.  I contacted two, one through their own website and another through airb&b, gave up and went to bed.  Thank god the ding ding ding had finished for the evening.

I got up early and looked at my emails.  I guess when I had hit the button that said “make booking inquiry” I had really made a booking through airb&b.  I was just trying to ask some questions and was going to book one of the two places this morning.  So, I guess I inadvertently made a decision.  There were several emails back and forth as I was getting packed up.  Some didn’t quite make sense, but I figured I’d work it out when I got there.  I figured I just had to go downstairs to check in, but left extra time for dealing with the possibility of extra suitcase drama.  Wow – so glad I left extra time.  I was in Terminal 2 and my flight was leaving from Terminal 3.  The hotel had a free shuttle and everyone was very helpful.  Terminal 3 is really far away.  It took over 15 minutes of drive time.  Terminal 3 is a big bright shiny new terminal – very worldly indeed.  I only had to pay $25 for the extra bag this time.  That’s more reasonable.  Right before I got on the plane I figured out why the hotel emails were weird.  I was emailing both hotels thinking it was only one.  I almost had booked two hotels.  The guy at the other hotel was not too happy about my mixup.  I got to Labuan Bajo just fine.  The guy picking me up from the airport was late so I had to deal with pushy taxi drivers for a while.  No matter how many times I told them someone was picking me up, they kept wanting to know where I was going, who I was waiting for, what’s my name.  If you were the person picking me up, you would know that.  I finally told one where I was staying and that someone was picking me up.  He actually called the hotel and put me on the phone.  The hotel is asking why I called.  I didn’t call you, the taxi driver thinks I’m stupid and that he’s going to harass me into his taxi.  My ride finally came.  Labuan Bajo is not worldly.  It makes rural Thailand look worldly.  It reminds me of the rural parts of Bali where there is one tiny broke down road in town.  The road is lined with small hotels and scuba shops with 8 or 9 restaurants and some shops.  I can see why all the hotels had such bad reviews. Nothing in this town is up to western standards.  My room is ok.  It is real basic.  It has wifi that doesn’t really work, air conditioning that doesn’t really work, hot water for 1.5 minutes, a lot of stairs, a decent restaurant and a very loud water pump behind my room that squeals every few seconds.  It’s costing me $41 per night and is probably worth $8.  But judging from some of the other places I walked by, I’m doing good.  Every hotel review I read complained about the 4:30am wake up call from the nearby mosque.  I already heard the evening call to prayer and it is insanely loud so there will be no escaping 4:30am.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

images-1images

20161115_184955
Parade Float
20161115_205347
SkyLanterns

20161115_220058

20161115_223342
RoofTopBar
20161115_223511
Shoes Off + Bar = Bad Idea

20161115_22391120161115_22444820161116_14422720161117_100818

20161117_124746
Enter a caption

20161117_124817

20161117_135134
Labuan Bajo Airport
20161117_135216
Labuan Bajo Airport
20161117_150210
Labuan Bajo

Loi Krathong Tak

I went to the Mae Sot bus station, got rushed onto bus that was just leaving with not ticket.  This pissed off bus attendant lady.  Why didn’t I have a ticket.  How was I supposed to know what seat was mine?  As she passed out the snacks, she purposefully skipped me.  Once again I think about how everyone is constantly telling me that Thai people are the nicest people on the planet.  I think they are just like all people on the planet, some are nice and some are not.

My hotel in Tak is nice.  I spent most of my time on the computer trying to plan where I’m going in a couple days.  Final decision – Indonesia – Flores Island for some diving and a day trip to Komodo Island.

Friday night, Noi came up to Tak to have dinner.  She brought Pim with her.  Pim wanted to go have Korean BBQ.  Noi asked if I had ever had Korean BBQ before and seemed quite surprised when I said I had.  She still doesn’t quite understand how big and culturally diverse America is.  I think I can honestly say not one restaurant I’ve eaten in in Thailand would pass a US health inspection.  This one was right up there. They put charcoal in the table, added a grill thing on top and gave you a teapot of a brownish liquid.  I’m not sure if the liquid was water or oil.  I’m hoping it was oil.  You poured the oil in the bottom part of the grill thing and that became like a hot pot.  Instead of ordering what you want to put on the bbq, you went up to a salad bar like thing.  There were vats of raw meat and vats of veggies and vats of mystery food.  You grabbed a basket and loaded it with what you wanted and went back to your table to cook.  It was tasty.  I didn’t get sick.  I have hardly gotten sick here.  After dinner we went to the river to walk on the bridge.  Noi was on a roll and was just cracking jokes and heckling kids.  Pim was doubled over laughing.  I sure am going to miss both of them.

I have too much stuff.  I decided to mail some more home.  I dragged a bag full of it to the post office just to find the post office closed at noon and it was 1:00.  When I got back to the hotel, the staff helped me find a box to put it all in.  The next day I carried the heavy box back to the post office and managed to get it sent off all by myself!  Hooray – small victory.  I will probably make it back to the US before it will.  So, if anyone wants to wear panda hats and play Mahjong with me, you’ll have to wait until February or March.

Saturday night I had dinner with Tip, her husband and kids, her mom and sister, Ging, Ton (the student that attended my monk classes) and a Russian lady.  The Russian lady is Fai’s English tutor on weekends.  I was excited to meet her until 5 minutes in when I realized she was going to talk my ear off to the point where I didn’t get to talk to my friends.  She wouldn’t stop talking and she is not a happy person.  After dinner everyone went home and I went to the river to see if any Loi Krathong activities were happening.  They had the street blocked off and bleachers set up along the street.  There were students sitting in the street forming words.  I have seen this a lot (like every 15 minutes) on tv.  People are forming words, or the King’s symbol or hearts or combinations and then taking photos.  It’s kind of like mourning flash mob.  Once again, it’s such an interesting thing to see nothing but black (and some white) clothing.  It felt weird in the airport, but it was even more apparent here.  Even the street vendors and shops have nothing but black.  Everyone was in the bleachers or sitting on the sidewalk or standing, waiting for something.  So I found a spot and waited too.  Tip’s mom was there, saw me and handed me a candle.  As quickly as I saw her, she was gone.  Ok, now I’m a participant.  I have a candle.  Then groups of students started walking down the street like a parade.  They had banners in front of each different group and the student all carried krathongs.  A krathong is a floaty thing to float candles down the river.  It might be a coconut shell or something made out of banana leaves.  They are decorated with flowers or other beautiful natural materials.  I saw some made of ice cream cones.  Some were plain and some were elaborate, made to look like ducks or swans.  There was a giant krathong on a flatbed trailer that came down the street too, but other than that it was just students, thousands of them.  I saw no one from Sam Ngao, but I ran into Kru O.  She’s the lady I met at the retiree’s ceremony a couple months ago.  She introduced me to her husband and daughters.  Kru O told me there were close to 5,000 students.  More standing around, then we all lit t he candles, then singing, then standing around, more singing.  Kru O gave me her krathong to float.  I need to put fingernails or hair and 1 baht in the krathong, make a wish and put it in the river.  The sight of 7,000 krathongs floating down the river at once was one I looked forward to.  It was more like a line of krathongs flying down the bank of the river with maybe one in 50 still lit.  It was still impressive to see, but not photo worthy.  I didn’t see the giant krathong go.  Not sure if did.  I think they should set the whole thing on fire.  It would be a floating bon fire.

Sunday night I went to the river again to see what might be going on.  There was a decent sized market.  There were people standing around with candles.  There were announcements and singing.  There was one group of students in the street.  It was like a mini mini version of the night before.  In the pavilion there were many giant krathongs on display.  Tomorrow night is the actual full moon and main night of the festival.  I’m curious what it will be like.

(c)All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

20161111_130755
Horse statue at hotel

20161111_130803

20161111_195440
Korean BBQ
20161111_195458
Korean BBQ with Noi and Pim

20161111_21095820161111_211016

20161111_211413
Noi and Pim on phones
20161112_185657
Forming letters in the street
20161112_192343
Giant krathong
20161112_201259
Kru O and her husband
20161112_201454
Lighting candles

20161112_20153720161112_201559

20161112_203838
Banana leaf krathong

20161112_205732

20161112_213854
Last roti sai mai

20161112_214304

20161113_145244
Have an Awake 2016

20161113_182722

20161113_185008
This is a waffle with bananas, chocolate chips and caramel 
20161113_191949
More giant krathongs

20161113_194703