Loi Krathong Sukohthai

Today I did not want to get up.  I almost missed the free breakfast at the hotel.  I was supposed to get up and take a bus to the bus stop near Sam Ngao.  Then Noi would pick me up and take me to school.  She didn’t have any classes until 11:00am.  I missed that.  I guess I don’t really want to go to school.  I guess that makes sense since I didn’t really want to go to school when I lived there either.  I also didn’t want to deal with getting a bus at the Tak bus station since I had such an unpleasant time last time I tried to get a bus out of there.  Eventually I made a new plan.  I took the bust to the highway bus stop and Ging picked me up and took me to her new coffee shop. She looks so happy.  I spent a couple hours with Ging and Tip there.

Then Tip took me to school.  I got to see some of the students, but not as many as I would have liked.  I got to see very few of the teachers.  A lot of teachers had left for a seminar?  Some of the students were making flowers out of ribbon and they helped me make one.  Pat explained that you but coins in them and then give them to the boys who are just starting out as monks.  I met the new western teachers.  Apparently there was some issue with Robin so he is gone and there is a young Filipino woman teaching math and science now. Noi asked them if they wanted to join us for Loi Krathong and they said yes.

Noi really wanted to go to Sukohthai instead of Tak.  If she is ok driving – it will be a late night for her, then it’s fine with me. I imagine it’s real pretty since it’s held at the historical park.  It was real beautiful.  There were so many people it was sometimes difficult to walk.  There was no rhyme or reason to the floating of the krathongs, just put them in a lake when and where you wanted.  There didn’t seem to be a program either, just food stalls, krathong sellers, people selling other stuff and lots of people taking pictures.  The only time everyone seemed on the same page was when they played the King’s song.  Everyone stopped what they were doing and stood still.  We wandered around, took pictures, ate food and floated krathongs.  If you make a wish before you float it, that wish will come true.  Since it’s a super moon, the wish is definitely going to come true.  I used the krathong that the hotel in Tak gave me.  The wick on it was a rope.  Within seconds, the krathong became the the floating sun.  I could barely hold it long enough to smile for a picture and get it in the water.  It might still be lit tomorrow morning.  If the krathong didn’t kill me, the pork balls tried to.  Once again, too spicy, tried to make my lips bleed.  One of the vendors was selling bags of fish, frogs, and turtles.  You can buy the bag and release them into one of the ponds.  Since you saved their lives, you will get good luck, merit and a long life in return.  What?  They wouldn’t need saving if someone hadn’t taken them out of a pond to sell so you could save them.

Overall, it was a very beautiful night!

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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The bus is trying to be pretty
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But it’s all  broke down
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At Ging’s new coffee shop
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Coffee shop kitchen
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Sukohthai Historical Park
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Krathongs for sale

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Hotter than the sun krathong

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Noi praying to Buddha

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Unemployed

This morning was goodbye time.  At morning assembly, they said goodbye to me in front of the whole school.  The director gave a speech and Pat translated.  He talked about how he could see my strong intention and kindness that I brought to the students every day.  Kru Pat gave a speech and I gave a speech.  Some of the teachers gave me gifts including Kru Pit who told me good luck and be happy in Thai and then hugged me.  Two of my students gave speeches too.  Of course, I was crying.  So many people told me not to cry.  It makes them so uncomfortable when someone shows emotion.  Noi even asked me if I felt relief after releasing all my bad feelings.  What bad feelings?  Crying isn’t bad.  It’s an emotion, it’s a natural part of being human.  Everything exists at once, it’s not bad and then good.  But, how do you explain that who believes in black and white so strongly?

Then everyone went into the meeting hall where they had ceremonies to say goodbye to the teacher who is retiring.  There was a picture slide show, speeches, gifts, photos, singing, students prostrating, and more photos.  One of the gifts at each going away I’ve seen is a fan.  I wonder if a fan is the most popular gift.  I’m glad I didn’t get a fan.  I wouldn’t be able to take it with me.  I love the singing and think it is a wonderful way to show gratitude, but I’m not too fond of the prostration.  Why does this bother as a sign of respect, but singing doesn’t?  (I had video of the singing, but wifi doesn’t want me to upload them right now).  After all this each class came up on stage and took a photo with the teacher.  When M1 was up there I remember thinking they looked so young (11 and 12 year olds).  It struck me that here was a man saying goodbye to his old life, an old life as a teacher ending standing next to so much youth, lives that had barely begun.

After all the pictures most students and teachers had left.  I noticed the M6/1 class standing in a circle patiently waiting for all the pictures to be done.  They brought the retiring teacher into the center of the circle and sang to him.  It was beautiful to watch.  Before they had started they had asked me to wait and not leave the meeting hall yet.  After they were done with him, they brought me into the center of the circle.  Someone said they had to sing in English and they didn’t know what to sing so they sang the alphabet song.  It was hysterical.  Then they tried to sing “See you again”, but didn’t get past the first chorus.  They finished with a Thai song.  It was very touching and my favorite memory of the day.  I didn’t get any photos or video of it.  If they surface later, I’ll post them.

I wanted to buy one of the school shirts.  There was one dark green one left and I was holding it up to see if it would fit.  Kru Chelon came in and saw me.  She had me try it on and then was so excited because she wanted to get me something, but didn’t know what so she bought the shirt for me.  So sweet!

Random thought of the day:  Why don’t they make belts in different sizes?  Every girl has a belt that is way too big for her.  So the tail of the belt wraps all the way around to her back or over to the other side.  Since this is annoying, they hold the belt in place with a binder clip.

I didn’t do much the rest of the day which was good because I’m still sick and just feel horrible.  Noi was supposed to come get the bags I’m leaving with her after school.  She decided not to take them and we went to dinner instead.  I felt so horrible that I barely made it through dinner, but I had no food at home so I didn’t really have much choice.  At some point she said she thought Americans were frank and went on about how this was a bad thing.  This is one part of Thai culture I just don’t agree with.  I’d rather someone be honest with me than lie to me just because lying is “nicer”.  This conversation, along with one about me being a liar because I say “I don’t know”, did me in.  I’m too sick to deal with this right now.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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M6/1

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Trying on my new shirt

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Thompien, the Director and Pat
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Kru Pit

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Going Back

I go back to Sam Ngao today.  I would have expected to wake up with the morning dreads, but I didn’t.  It was more like minor grumblings mostly about waking up in general.  I don’t want to go back to my house or back to work, but I feel a sort of resolve.  This is what is happening and it’s ok.  I will miss the lack of roosters.  I haven’t heard one in Chaing Mai.  I will miss the swimming pool.  Goodbye Western food.  Goodbye air conditioning, I will miss you most of all.

I packed up, went out for breakfast and then went back to the condo to work on lesson plans and watch more bad tv.  I caught the end of Minority Report.  I like that movie.  But then it was paranormal activity investigators on the sci fi channel – boo.  I waited in the lobby of the condo for 45 minutes before Pat asked me to get a taxi and come to her.  I got a taxi to the other side of town and had lunch with Pat and Dam.  Now I am riding back to Sam Ngao with them listening to 60s and 70s American music and watching Pat grab the oh shit handle every time Dam tries to pass another car.

I’m wondering how terrifying my house will be after being locked up for 2 months.  Will it be a little dusty?  Will the rat and other creatures have found the snacks I left?  Will the refrigerator have flooded the kitchen?  Will I come home to bug wings inches deep like I did one weekend?  Or will it be a total war zone?  Tune in tomorrow……or later tonight.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore