I Had to Fire my Shoes

I bought some shoes on line that were touted as the best travel shoes ever.  They were grey flats with lots of padding, lightweight and apparently smell resistant.  I tried them out on a trip to Norway and again in Thailand and they lived up to the hype. 

Today, I had nothing planned until a wagyu beef tour in the evening.  After breakfast I headed to Harajuku.  I had been there before and loved wandering through all the interesting shops.  I also thought a park I remembered loving was there.  Last time I was there, we went to a very odd cat cafe.  I had no desire to do that again, but Google has decided that it would let me know there was an owl cafe and that peaked my interest. 

I arrived in Harajuku an hour before the owl cafe opened.  The area was super crowded with tourists and Japanese girls, about age 6, with their parents.  They were all standing in lines in various places (not the tourists).  Something big was happening.  I googled it and found nothing useful.  Instead I found some other news articles about someone running over 7 school aged kids.  Not what I was looking for, Google.  First you give me owls, then car accident….

I wandered around the little shops.  There were tourist t shirt shops, stores with only gumball type machines.  You put your money in, twist the knob and out pops candy or a plastic figurine of your favorite cartoon character.  Last time I was in Japan, I found one with cat hats and proudly went home with a cat hat to give to friends I knew would get it.  I looked for cat hats this time because I have 3 cats.  I found none.  So sad.

As I wandered, I walked by cat cafes, two dog cafes, a hedge hog cafe, an otter cafe, and three mini pig cafes.  What the hell is going on here?  Why so much interest in mini pigs?  I didn’t go to the owl cafe.

I went to the park I remembered.  It wasn’t a park, but the entrance to a temple.  There was a park next door that I decided to go check out if I had time after. 

I got a call from a Japanese number.  That seemed odd so I answered it in case it had something to do with the food tour.  It did.  They cancelled because the guide was sick.  I sat down on a bench and looked through other tours.  There were only three that specialized in wagyu.  Two had no availability and one looked like it was pretty far away.  I looked at other food tours and found one that looked ok except the sushi part (I don’t like fish).  Still, I could try the sushi and if I didn’t like it, I’m sure there would still be plenty of other food.  I booked it and then contacted the tour company to make sure they got the booking.  It took awhile of whatsap-ing back and forth before they got the booking.

I had a couple hours before I had to make my way to Shinjuku station.  My right heel was hurting like I was getting a blister.  I just booked a walking food tour.  So, I looked for a pharmacy.  Google maps was having trouble in this area so I walked back and forth across the same crowded intersection three times before I could get it to stop jumping around.  It led me into a building that was not a pharmacy.  I used translate to ask a woman if she could tell me where the pharmacy was.  Instead of directing me, she walked me there – underground on the opposite side of the building.  I bought bandaids and bandaged two hot spots I felt.  Ready to go!

Shinjuku station wasn’t too far away.  I had plenty of time to get to the Starbucks that was the meeting place.  A coffee sounded good too.  Google maps went nuts at the same intersection again.  I crossed it and then it showed I went the wrong way.  I did this several times before I had to go old school and just read the actual map.  The intersection was a quarter block from the train station!  I still had plenty of time, but was running low on willpower.

I arrived in Shinjuku station and looked for the exit signs.  In every other station the exits were numbered and signs with arrows directed you.  No signs.  So I picked a direction.  Five minutes later still no exits, just signs to other train lines.  Up escalators, down escalators, past other train lines, through ticket gates, past shops, NO EXITS.  If I could just get above ground, maps could re-route me.  After about 15 minutes, I started seeing exit signs for East and West.  I was looking for the Yasuda Exit.  I never saw a sign for Yasuda and maps didn’t tell me an exit number or East or West.  It appeared the meeting place was west of the station and I no longer had plenty of time.  The West exit sounds great!  I never saw any other exit signs.  About 5 minutes later, I saw an exit and took it.  I looked behind me and saw it was the Yasuda Exit (or entrance for anyone reading the sign).  I made it to the Starbucks just in time.  I actually suspect I might have nightmares in the future about being stuck in this station.

The tour was good.  We walked around Shinjuku and learned a little about the area.   We went to four different restaurants and tried a variety of food and drink.  Unfortunately the first restaurant was sushi and sashimi.  I tried it though.  Some was ok and some was not to my liking.

After the tour, I headed back to my hotel.  It was so much easier to navigate back to the hotel.  I was so tired and my feet hurt so bad.  After I took my shoes off, I counted 5 blisters, 4 of which were on the bottom of my feet.  Those shoes will not be continuing the trip with me.

Some things I learned today:

The word Godzilla comes from the words Gorilla and Whale although Godzilla is neither a gorilla or whale.

Shinjuku Station is considered the busiest train station in the world – 3.5 million people pass through a day (in 2018) – It has 16 train lines – It is roughly 182,000 square meters (45 acres) in size – It has over 200 exits.  It’s a miracle I am not still in there.

Gambling for cash is illegal in Japan, but Pachinko machines are legal.  You can win balls from the game.  The balls can be turned in at the Pachinko parlour for prize tokens.  The prize tokens can be sold elsewhere for money.

A small alley named Nonbei Yokocho has other names such as Drunkard’s Alley, Memory Lane, or Piss Alley.  I didn’t really need to know that, but now I do.  Now you do too.

Ramen

I decided to go to Shinjuku for dinner.  I looked for ramen restaurants on Google maps and picked one nearby the station that had good reviews.  Maps led me down a busy street and then turned me down an alley.  The alley was quiet and dark except for a place that was lit up and had a line of people in front of it. 

I had to wait in line for ramen?  Normally, I would not be up for waiting in line for dinner, but a line down the alley had to be a good sign.  So I got in line.

A lady came out of the restaurant and took tickets from a couple a few people ahead of me.  Huh.  How did they get tickets?  Was I in line for take out?  I hoped not.  I wouldn’t know where to take it.  The guy behind me hadn’t done anything so I just stood there, waiting. 

Two people came out of the restaurant and got in line up ahead of me. No one seemed bothered by this.  Oh…..something was going on that I didn’t understand.  After about 5 minutes the guy in front of me went in and came back out with a ticket.  I think I got it – kind of. 

The lady came out, asked him some questions, wrote on his ticket and took his ticket.  She then motioned for me to go inside to get a ticket.

I went inside.  It was a tiny restaurant that only sat 12 people.  I’d only been in one ramen restaurant before and it was tiny too, but without the line and ticket system.  There was a machine and it appeared to have menu items on it.  There was shrimp and miso, shrimp and tomato, and shrimp and dipping sauce.  I pressed the button for shrimp and dipping sauce, but nothing happened.  I pressed another button below it.  Nothing happened.  I stared at the machine for a minute, trying to figure out what to do next.  Finally, I see the lady who was outside and motioned for help.  She showed me where to put money in the machine.  Duh.  It was obvious after she showed me.  The machine lit up and I pressed a button.  A ticket popped out and then my change. 

I think I might have ordered ramen with shrimp, dipping sauce and egg?  I went back out and stood where I was in line.  The lady came to get my ticket and asked what size I wanted.  I said small.  Small apparently came with another topping, pork or something.  I understood “pork” so I picked that.  She wrote on my ticket and took it. 

I watched the system continue with the people behind me as I waited to go in to eat.  Now I was excited.  It was like dinner with a guessing game. Guess what happens next….. This is one the things I love so much about travelling – feeling kind of clueless or lost because something is so different than I am used to. 

When I got closer to the door, I noticed the sign for the restaurant.  It had a huge shrimp on it.  Aha, that must be their speciality and it explained the choices.

When it was time to go in, the lady told me “two” and motioned to a bar stool with a 2 on it.  As I sat down the guy in seat 1 got up and went to a counter behind the bar stools where there was a stack of cups and a water dispenser.  Suddenly I was so thirsty.  I got up, got some water, a packaged wet cloth for cleaning my hands and what I thought was a napkin.  It was the least absorbent napkin I had ever felt.  Wait, it wasn’t a napkin.  It was a bib.  I hadn’t noticed before, but everyone was wearing bibs.  I don’t think I’d worn a bib since I was a kid.  This was oddly super fun.

Proudly, I put my bib on, grabbed my chop sticks and waited for my food to arrive.  They gave me two bowls, one with noodles, lettuce and pork in it and one with the sauce and “shrimp”.  Watching others, I see that you take a little of everything and put it in the sauce to soak for a few seconds, then eat, then repeat.  The shrimp had the consistency of shrimp, but didn’t resemble shrimp in any other way.  The pork was excellent. 

Still not used to the time change coupled with a belly full of carbs I was exhausted. I decided that going back to the hotel and going to bed by 9:00 was the best plan.