Back to Hanoi

We came back to Hanoi today.  We had to leave the bungalows early in the morning and were shuttled from boat to boat until we were back on the boat we had stayed on the night before.  They did a cooking class on the boat, but I skipped it.  It will be a long time before I can look at Asian food again.  I just sat on the top of the boat feeling like death.  After the boat dropped us at the dock, we waited for a bus, then the long ride home.  The bus stopped at one of those rest stops with the store to buy local goods again.  This one was a madhouse with people everywhere.  That didn’t help me feel better – getting tired of people everywhere.  The hotel I booked in Hanoi is good though.  It was the most cheerful greeting I’ve ever received at a hotel.  One guy ran out into the street to get my bags, the lady at the desk knew who I was and the other lady was so happy, she must have been coated in candy.  On the way to dinner a lady carrying food in baskets over her shoulder walked up to Erin and put the thing on her shoulder and then demanded I take a picture.  She wouldn’t take it off Erin and Erin looked like she was going to drop it any second.  I took a picture and then the lady tried to sell her fruit.  When Erin refused, she demanding money for the picture.  Erin gave her a tiny tiny amount of money which pissed of the lady and we hightailed it out of there.  After dinner, Erin and I decided to get body scrubs.  The guy in the spa must have gone to the same hospitality school as the lady at our hotel because he was so happy to tell us about the spa.  I usually love body scrubs.  This one was brutal.  There was nothing gentle about the lady who did mine.  It was like a sports massage with salt.  I had to look down several times to make sure I wasn’t bleeding.  But, at the same time, I was happy to have a layer of skin removed.  I felt like it was removing Sam Ngao, months of sweat, strange housemates, Hanoi and this sickness.  And nothing else matters except that the bed in my hotel room is soft.  I didn’t think there was such a thing in SE Asia as a soft bed.  If I could put this bed in the bungalow, I’d never leave.  Time to hit it!

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Yes, that boat is named Hung Long….

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Halong Bay

Today we got up early to get on a bus to Halong Bay.  The bus didn’t come on time and then later we found out they had messed up the dates of our bus pickup so someone came in a taxi and drove us to the bus.  I thought that was interesting.  The bus ride was over 3 hours long and had a rest stop along the way.  The rest stop was a warehouse sales place where they were selling stone statues, embroidery, clothes, lacquered items, jewelry and other locally made souvenirs.  They had some food and drink too.  It was a zoo of people.

One of the interesting facts that the tour guide told us was that Hanoi had a population of 9 million people and 6 million motorbikes.  That seems to match what I experienced.

When we got to Halong Bay, that was a zoo of people, buses and boats.  We got on a boat that took us to another boat.  A ton of boats left the harbor around the same time.  Not quite what you see in pictures.  We checked into our room on the boat and had lunch.  There was so much food it was ridiculous.  Most of it, I wasn’t sure if I would be able to hold it down or not.  After a while, there were less boats around us.  It was beautiful, but so foggy that you couldn’t see far and all my pictures look unimpressive.  We went to Cat Ba Island and went in a cave.  There are supposedly tons of caves in the area, but not too many open to tourists.  Then we had time to kayak.  They gave me a kayak that was way too big for one person so I gave up after about 5 minutes.  Dinner was the same as lunch – so much food and I barely ate any.  There were 24 guests on the boat and for the most part, it was the most boring group of people I’ve ever met.  Since I felt so bad, I decided to go to bed after dinner instead of “partying” with the rest of the boat.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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There are green trees, I swear
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Love Love the little furry fruit (Lychee?)

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5:00am

The train arrived in Hanoi at 5:00am.  What?  No one should be awake at 5:00am.  I did not sleep well on the train.  The air conditioning didn’t work and I just sweated and wondered how often trains derail.  I slept a little, but I’m sick so I’m going to whine a little and call on your sympathy.

On the taxi ride to our hotel, we saw soooo many people running around the lake.  The city was already kicking at 5:00am.  They dropped me off first.  I can’t check in until 2:00pm, but at least I could leave my suitcase there.  I feel so sick I can barely move.  It’s misty and drippy, not quite raining out.  I walked the few blocks to the hostel where the rest were staying.  After my hostel experience in Sapa and because I feel so bad, I decided to book my own hotel in Hanoi.  The small streets were not too busy yet.  The hostel was busy with people trying to check in, people waiting for tours and people passed on the couches because they agree with me that 5:00am is just too early.  I was bored and not loving the hostel scene so I left to hunt for food.  In just a half hour the streets had gone from not too busy to mayhem.  There were motor bikes everywhere, people walking, people cooking food in the street, people carrying stuff, and store front’s opening.  I saw an entire street of just tape and packing materials stores.  There didn’t appear to be any restaurants, just random people cooking on the side of the street.  I walked a few blocks and went back to the hostel soaking wet, hungry and quite cranky.  A little while later I tried another food hunt with Louise and we found coffee and I got some bananas.

I decided to set out to see if I could find a place to fix my computer.  The lady working at the hostel suggested a place so I set out in the damp with a map to find it.  I found it and they said they didn’t cover hard ware problems.  They showed me a street not too far away that had computer stores so I headed in that direction.  The streets here are crazy.  There are more vehicles on the road than looks physically possible.  The motorbikes outnumber the cars and buses.  They pass each other with only an inch of room in between.  The motorbikes park on the sidewalk so you have no choice but to walk in traffic.  Crosswalks exist, but don’t mean anything.  You just have to walk in the street and hope no one hits you.  When you cross the street you just run or take a few steps while swarms of motorbikes go around you, take a few more steps and then a few more.  No one stops to let you cross, they just keep moving and weave in and out of each other and you.  Somehow it works.

The street with computer stores was 20 blocks or so with nothing but what looked like people selling electronics out of their garages.  It was kind of creepy.  I picked one and they tried real hard to fix it, but couldn’t figure it out.  I bought a usb drive and figured I could at least save all my files before I gave up on the computer.  I found a store a ways away that said “blah blah blah Microsoft” on google maps so I decided to try that before I reset my computer to factory settings I’d try that place.  My computer was made by Microsoft.  It was much farther than I thought and was the actual company Microsoft.  I figured they wouldn’t be able to help, but went up anyway.  The lady said the Surface was only made in America so they couldn’t help.  She suggested a place I could buy a new computer.

There was a restaurant in the building so I had lunch there.   They didn’t speak English, but after a bit, I managed to order stir fried veggies and rice.  I ran the thing on my computer that cleared it and took it back to factory settings.  It still didn’t fix the problem.  Half way through lunch I was overcome with the distinct feeling that I needed to stop eating now.  I felt ill and left without finishing my meal.  I’m exhausted, sick, damp, and upset by the loss of my computer.

I went to the store the Microsoft lady recommended which was waaaaay more walking.  I bought a new computer.  They said they could set it up in English.  Everything is so cheap here, except my computer.  It cost me $450.  They said it would take 2 hours to set up and I should come back.  It’s now 1:30 and I just want to check into my hotel and sleep, but I have to find something to do for 2 hours and I’m no longer anywhere near the hotel.  I find a coffee shop near by and sit in at a tiny table in a tiny chair on the sidewalk.  The guy who works there is nice and brings me coffee with a side of tea.  Strange, but ok.  Then when I’m done with my tiny coffee, he brings me more tea.  I took a chance and went back to the computer shop a half hour early and it was ready.  They helped me get a taxi back to my hotel and checked in around 5:00pm instead of 2:00.  By now I’m sure I have food poisoning.  It was either brushing my teeth on the train or the banana with the split in the side I had for breakfast.  It could have been lunch too since I had that distinct feeling or that may have been when it hit.

As is the case with most things, maybe all things, there is a spiritual component to this.  Process is coming up and things are moving and changing and I can’t control it, but just hold on tight and go with it.  I’ll post more about this in the next blog for those that are interested in these things.  For those that are not, I went to bed early.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Sicker

Yep, the trekking was too much.  I don’t feel any better, maybe worse.  It feels different so I think I may have caught something else while my immune system was down.  I just sat at coffee shops yesterday and worked.  Erin and Louise were happy to have a down day to catch up on emails and stuff so they hung most of the day with me.  Not sure what Annalise did.  Today, I felt worse yet, but still went on a hike to a viewpoint over the town.  It went through one of the strangest parks I’ve ever seen with scary statues, gardens, big rocks, a homestay and steep trails.  The viewpoint was great, but I shouldn’t have gone.  I’m just miserable now.  My computer doesn’t feel good either.  It will no longer recognize wifi signals.  It says there are no wifi connections when my phone sees over 20.  I spent 2 hours running trouble shooters which I already thought were useless and I’m now convinced are.  I did a system refresh which deleted every preference and app I had.  It didn’t delete my files though.  Still nothing.  I have Engineering work that needs to be done asap and I will not be able to do lesson plans without a computer.  I basically cannot survive without one.  I know Erin bought a computer in Thailand and it was reasonably priced and works well.  I will try to get it fixed in Hanoi tomorrow, but I don’t have much faith that is possible.  I will probably have to mail it back to the US to get fixed or replaced.  I feel completely defeated and just so tired.  I find it interesting how attached we are to our electronics.  I remember a time when I was able to survive without a cell phone and a computer.   We just connected with each other, made better plans and went to a place of business to work.  So, I’m still attached to my electronics.

We took another bus back to the train station to take the night train back to Hanoi.  I kinda excited about the night train.  I think the rocking will help lull me to sleep and maybe I’ll feel better tomorrow.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Sapa Trekking

The fog cleared a little.  It was still overcast, but warmer and everything looked less dire than it did yesterday.  I was able to book the last room at the Cat Cat hotel.  It was a family room with three beds for $25 a night.  Deal!  The view from the deck was stunning.  It was clean and had a heater in it.

The tour was wonderful.  We hiked through villages.  It didn’t look like it did in pictures because we were here before planting season.  They plant the rice in May so I imagine June and later is stunning.  They taught us a little about the different tribes in the area and we walked through some of the villages.  We walked through a bamboo forest, along top of the rice fields and to a waterfall.  Our guide and bunch of other women dressed in their traditional clothes walked with us.  The waterfall had almost no water, but it was still pretty.  At some point, we saw two water buffalo locking horns.  I thought that was a good point to throw some of Scott’s ashes over the rice fields.  So, in the future when you eat rice, imagine it might have come from Sapa and carries the joyous energy of that beautiful man.  I also left some of his ashes in the waterfall.

Of course, at the end of the tour, the ladies that were walking with us unpacked all their handmade wares and tried to get us to buy stuff for having “helped” us along the trek.  We got back in town and wandered around some more.  The town is much bigger than it felt yesterday and I like it a whole lot more than I did yesterday.  All the restaurants we have tried so far have been real good and everyone is nice.  The tribe ladies in the streets trying to sell you stuff or get you to sign up for tours is annoying though.

I’m still feeling horrible and today was great to get out and do some exercise, but now I feel worse.  It was a little too much activity.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Scott Rice Terraces

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My trekkin budy (she’s one year younger than me)

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Waterfall with no water

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Foggy Sapa

We arrived at the train station at 6:00am.  What’s my name?  A sweet lady shows up with sticky rice.  So I bought some thinking it would be like Thai sticky rice.  Oh no, it wasn’t.  It was tasteless patties of white goo that I was supposed to buy sausage to go with.  You make a rice goo sausage sandwich.  I ate one and decided I never needed to eat that again.  We waited out front of the train station for our shuttle.  It was a zoo of taxi drivers hassling us and backpackers everywhere.  Later it turns out one of the taxi drivers that was bugging us actually was our shuttle.  If he had a sign with our name or the hostel’s name on it, we would have gone with him sooner.  He finally showed us a confirmation email.  The ride to Sapa was at least an hour from the train station, maybe more.  It’s wet and foggy and everything is damp.  Omg, the streets of Sapa are so narrow and steep.  There were buses, motorbikes and hikers everywhere barely missing each other by inches.  I’m not sure how you even get a motorbike up the steepness of these roads.  It’s very cold and everything is wet and muddy.

We got to the hostel and didn’t have the private room we were promised.  Annalise took the last bottom bunk and the shower was cold.  There were no lockers or any way to lock up our valuables.  I felt very flustered and unhappy.  So, I decided I could just feel unhappy or I could change my situation so I asked if there was a private room I could upgrade to.  There was so I did that.

We set out in the cold foggy weather to see Sapa.  They sold “North Face” jackets, hiking boots, backpacks and other gear in every other store.  I didn’t want to buy more clothes, but I was freezing so I got leggings, a hat and gloves.  The North Face jackets were $15-$25.  I ended up buying one of those, not because I needed one, but because I have a jacket problem.

We went to the pharmacy because both Erin and I are sick.  In Thailand, you often skip the doctor and go straight to the pharmacy and the pharmacists speak English so we figured it might be the same in Vietnam.  She didn’t speak English and I doubt she was a pharmacist, but after a short game of guess this illness charades, we both had a pile of drugs.  Mine were sinus drainage drugs and an antibiotic.  So, if I have a sinus infection, that should work.  Fingers crossed.

We holed up most of the afternoon in a restaurant that had a fireplace and fabulous ginger tea.  We wandered around town a little, but it wasn’t really pleasant.  We signed up for a tour that included a waterfall and trekking through the tribal villages and rice fields for tomorrow.  Hopefully the fog clears enough to see something.  After dinner, I had a massage.  It was in a cold room and the massage was mediocre at best.  I miss Thai massage already.  She did do a lot of work on my face and head which felt great on my sinuses and hopefully helped!  The fog is creepy, but in a fabulous way at night.  I enjoyed walking back to the hostel in it.

I got back to my private hostel room and was met by the smell of mildew.  In the dark, it’s creepy.  There are cobwebs everywhere and it just feels gross, cold and wet.  It’s too late to do anything now, but first thing tomorrow, I’m going to book a room at the hotel next door which got good reviews.  It’s more expensive, but at this point I don’t care.  It’s official, I’m too old for hostels.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Look carefully, those are dead squirrels as decoration

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Ha!
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Tiny coffee with candle to keep it warm
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Disco Lights in my scary hostle room

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