Jomtien

I went down to the lobby at 4:45.  One of the night guys was asleep on a bed behind the desk and the other was on a lobby couch.  I felt bad about waking them up, but the one on the couch hopped up and grabbed my bad and took it out to the taxi that was already waiting for me.  I think the Vietnamese people are easy to anger and have short tempers, but when they smile or are helpful, it feels so much more sincere than the Thai people.  My flight back to Bangkok was uneventful and it was the shortest wait I’ve ever had to get through immigration anywhere.  I said goodbye to Annaliese.  I felt a huge relief as I did.  Not that I was relieved to say goodbye.  She is a sweet fun person, but I realized I had taken on some of her energetic stuff (everyone has stuff).  With all that I am learning and the big wall I am coming to with the disintegration of identity, I think I took on some of her fear, making mine feel larger, a trick of the ego to keep me in fear so I won’t move forward in this process.  I know other people that feel the energies going on around them so strongly that it is overwhelming and they sometimes don’t know what is them and what is others.  I never use to think I did this, but now I’m realizing I do sometimes.  It just comes in more subtle and I don’t realize I’m taking on other energies right away.  When I do, I’m able to drop it quickly.  The relief I felt today was when I let her energies go and some of my fear went with it.

With a bit of difficulty, I found the bus to Jomtiem which is a couple hours south east of Bangkok.

Jomtiem is a beach area near Pattaya.  Pattay is a big beach destination for old white men and people wanting to get away from Bangkok.  When I first moved to Thailand one of my co-workers put me in touch with his brother-in-law, Chris.  Chris lives in Jomtien.  He was a huge force in keeping me sane when I first moved to Sam Ngao.  I would often call him after school when it was the middle of the night in the US.  I just told him I needed to speak and hear fluent English and it would set my brain right.  He’s a sailor and told me he’d take me sailing if I ever made it to Jomtien so I decided this would be a good place to relax between Vietnam and Krabi.

The bus dropped me off and I walked a couple blocks to the restaurant Chris was meeting me at.  It was nice to put a face to the voice.  I managed to eat a half a sandwich.  Yay!  He recommended an apartment complex nearby that rents rooms and has a pool so we went there.  There were several high rise buildings with plain looking apartments and a big pool.  On the bottom floor of each building is a row of plain looking businesses, Thai restaurants, small bars, places renting rooms and other things.  We went into one of the places renting rooms and booked a room for me.  It’s not the nicest place, but it’s on the 10th floor.  The rent was cheap enough and I have to pay for water and electricity when I leave.  I think I’d rather have a hotel, but I think this will do for 4 days.

I had told Chris I was sick and asked if there was a doctor he recommended.  He has and ear infection so he said he’d go with me.  We walked into the clinic and I told them what was going on.  I talked to the doctor for a while.  Her English was difficult to understand, but she seemed to understand me better.  She asked a lot of questions, took temperature, looked in my throat and nose.  She told me it wasn’t Dengue fever as if I was nuts to ask.  She said I’d be burning up and red if it was.  Then I got called back in for an injection.  The nurse put 4 or 5 things in the syringe.  I have no idea what was in the shot and I don’t much care.  Then she gave me a bag with 7 different drugs.  She gave me instructions on how to take them, but not what they were.  She said one was an antibiotic that would help with the sinus infection and stomach problems.  Again, I don’t much care what the drugs are if they work.  It all didn’t take long and cost me about $30.  Much cheaper than the US, but way more expensive than Sam Ngao.

After the clinic, Chris dropped me off at the apartments.  I went and got a foot massage at one of the places in the building.  It might have been the best foot massage yet.  Then I went to the pool and just sat in the water.  Finally, I was immersed in water.  The water was way too warm, but it was wonderful anyway.

I need to pay for wifi at the building and found out too late to pay.  The office was closed.  So, I ventured out for dinner and hung out in a sports bar until they closed, just posting blogs, putting more money on my Thai phone, making phone calls and catching up on email.  I ate a whole personal pizza.  I feel tired, but so much better.  Thanks mystery injection.

I found out earlier today that my mom’s husband is in the hospital.  He can’t keep food down and now isn’t very coherent.  I talked to mom tonight and she is ok, all considered.  I didn’t ask when he went to the hospital, but I can bet it was around the time I was in Hanoi processing about her.  I wonder why our medical system thinks radiation is a good alternative to cancer.  Most people I’ve known that had radiation died of radiation complications.  Why don’t we just try to make people more comfortable and let them go of cancer?  How did pumping someone full of poison become the solution to not die of cancer.  I guess it works for some, but I still think something is terribly wrong with our medical system.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

 

Tiny Tables and Chairs

I didn’t do much today either.  Slept in, had breakfast and walked around a little.  Then we stopped for coffee.  The coffee shops here are funny.  They only serve drinks.  They put tiny tables and chairs on the sidewalk and there are people sitting at them any time of the day.  A few had hookah pipes too.  I wonder how there are so many people not working, just sitting at tiny tables.  So we did the tiny table thing one more time.  I’ve spent the rest of the day in my room, repacking, working (engineering stuff) and looking for new flights.  The airline I booked my ticket to Krabi has staffing problems and canceled most of their flights, including mine.  I have to be up at 4:30am tomorrow so my plan is to sit in this comfy bed the rest of the day and go to bed early.  This may be the last soft bed I ever see in SE Asia.  Erin left today and I’m sad to lose her as a travel buddy.  She was delightful to travel with.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

Water Puppets

Not much happened today.  We slept in and had breakfast in our hotel.  The staff was just as happy about feeding us as they were about checking us in yesterday.  I was going to try to find a doctor today, but after talking to the hotel lady, decided going back to bed was a better idea.  She said most doctors don’t speak English and so most foreigners go to the hospital, but the lines at the hospital are so long that if you don’t get there at 5:00am you might not get seen.  Add that all up, I’ll wait until I get back to Thailand.  So we hung out in our hotel until 3:00pm when we set out to get tickets for the 4:10 water puppet show.  I’ve never heard of the art of water puppetry, but apparently, it’s a thing.  And it sounds like it originated here and the Water Puppet Theatre is famous so we decided to see a show.  They were sold out until the 8:00pm show so we wandered around until then.  The show was so interesting.  I’m not sure how to explain it.  Google Hanoi Water Puppet Show.  There was a live band of ancient Vietnamese instruments which was my favorite part.  They reenacted things like farming, chasing frogs and the dance of the dragons.  The puppets were in water and the puppeteers behind a screen manipulating the puppets with rods under water. The puppets were brightly colored and some had sparklers.  It was a fun show and I highly recommend you see a water puppet show if one ever crosses your path.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Entrance to a temple on the lake in Hanoi

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At the temple altar
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Temple altar

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Nightmares!

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Back to Hanoi

We came back to Hanoi today.  We had to leave the bungalows early in the morning and were shuttled from boat to boat until we were back on the boat we had stayed on the night before.  They did a cooking class on the boat, but I skipped it.  It will be a long time before I can look at Asian food again.  I just sat on the top of the boat feeling like death.  After the boat dropped us at the dock, we waited for a bus, then the long ride home.  The bus stopped at one of those rest stops with the store to buy local goods again.  This one was a madhouse with people everywhere.  That didn’t help me feel better – getting tired of people everywhere.  The hotel I booked in Hanoi is good though.  It was the most cheerful greeting I’ve ever received at a hotel.  One guy ran out into the street to get my bags, the lady at the desk knew who I was and the other lady was so happy, she must have been coated in candy.  On the way to dinner a lady carrying food in baskets over her shoulder walked up to Erin and put the thing on her shoulder and then demanded I take a picture.  She wouldn’t take it off Erin and Erin looked like she was going to drop it any second.  I took a picture and then the lady tried to sell her fruit.  When Erin refused, she demanding money for the picture.  Erin gave her a tiny tiny amount of money which pissed of the lady and we hightailed it out of there.  After dinner, Erin and I decided to get body scrubs.  The guy in the spa must have gone to the same hospitality school as the lady at our hotel because he was so happy to tell us about the spa.  I usually love body scrubs.  This one was brutal.  There was nothing gentle about the lady who did mine.  It was like a sports massage with salt.  I had to look down several times to make sure I wasn’t bleeding.  But, at the same time, I was happy to have a layer of skin removed.  I felt like it was removing Sam Ngao, months of sweat, strange housemates, Hanoi and this sickness.  And nothing else matters except that the bed in my hotel room is soft.  I didn’t think there was such a thing in SE Asia as a soft bed.  If I could put this bed in the bungalow, I’d never leave.  Time to hit it!

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Yes, that boat is named Hung Long….

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Bungalows

Another early morning.  Breakfast was at 7:00am.  Then they took us to a pearl farm.  This was fascinating.  They take one oyster, cut 30 strips of muscle from it (yes, that oyster dies).  They have small balls made out of crushed up pearls (slightly larger than a grain of sand).  They use the muscle strips to attach the small pearl balls in 30 other oysters.  Then they put the oysters in nets and hang them from buoys in the water.  Years (9 or more?) later they open them up and see what pearls they created.  Some real small percentage still create “perfect” pearls.  I’m not much of a pearl person, but they had so many beautiful colors in the shop.  Black pearls are a deep blue.  There were green, pink, white and the yellow or gold were my favorites.

Then we went back to the boat and checked out and got on another boat.  The boat ride took quite a while and we picked up other people and went through an area tighter with little rock outcroppings.  It’s so beautiful, but it was still foggy so the pictures don’t do it justice.  Then you look down at the green water an it’s so full of trash.  It’s such a shame.  One of the world’s prettiest places with trash everywhere.  We passed tons of floating shacks on the water.  They all looked so run down and dirty.  I just kept reminding myself that my house in Sam Ngao is worlds better than that.

The boat finally pulls up to a tiny rock/island with 20 or so bungalows on it.  It’s right out of a travel magazine.  This will be our home for the afternoon and night.  The room was very basic, but the views stunning.  It was quiet with no tv or wifi.  Can I just stay here forever?  After lunch I wanted to go swimming, but it was rainy and just a little too cold.  I just feel like I want so badly to be immersed in water.  Plus, I kept remembering how the water looked not too far away.  So I walked a little on the tiny beach and then took a nap.  After dinner we played cards which was real nice.  In a world with parties and bars and constant internet, I forgot how much I love sitting around playing games and just enjoying the company of others.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Pearl Farm
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Pearl Farm
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Bouys with oysters below them waiting years to be brought back up

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Tiny temple on a beach

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Floating home
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Floating home
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Making my house in Sam Ngao look awesome
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What?  This is where we are staying?

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Hello

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Halong Bay

Today we got up early to get on a bus to Halong Bay.  The bus didn’t come on time and then later we found out they had messed up the dates of our bus pickup so someone came in a taxi and drove us to the bus.  I thought that was interesting.  The bus ride was over 3 hours long and had a rest stop along the way.  The rest stop was a warehouse sales place where they were selling stone statues, embroidery, clothes, lacquered items, jewelry and other locally made souvenirs.  They had some food and drink too.  It was a zoo of people.

One of the interesting facts that the tour guide told us was that Hanoi had a population of 9 million people and 6 million motorbikes.  That seems to match what I experienced.

When we got to Halong Bay, that was a zoo of people, buses and boats.  We got on a boat that took us to another boat.  A ton of boats left the harbor around the same time.  Not quite what you see in pictures.  We checked into our room on the boat and had lunch.  There was so much food it was ridiculous.  Most of it, I wasn’t sure if I would be able to hold it down or not.  After a while, there were less boats around us.  It was beautiful, but so foggy that you couldn’t see far and all my pictures look unimpressive.  We went to Cat Ba Island and went in a cave.  There are supposedly tons of caves in the area, but not too many open to tourists.  Then we had time to kayak.  They gave me a kayak that was way too big for one person so I gave up after about 5 minutes.  Dinner was the same as lunch – so much food and I barely ate any.  There were 24 guests on the boat and for the most part, it was the most boring group of people I’ve ever met.  Since I felt so bad, I decided to go to bed after dinner instead of “partying” with the rest of the boat.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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There are green trees, I swear
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Love Love the little furry fruit (Lychee?)

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5:00am

The train arrived in Hanoi at 5:00am.  What?  No one should be awake at 5:00am.  I did not sleep well on the train.  The air conditioning didn’t work and I just sweated and wondered how often trains derail.  I slept a little, but I’m sick so I’m going to whine a little and call on your sympathy.

On the taxi ride to our hotel, we saw soooo many people running around the lake.  The city was already kicking at 5:00am.  They dropped me off first.  I can’t check in until 2:00pm, but at least I could leave my suitcase there.  I feel so sick I can barely move.  It’s misty and drippy, not quite raining out.  I walked the few blocks to the hostel where the rest were staying.  After my hostel experience in Sapa and because I feel so bad, I decided to book my own hotel in Hanoi.  The small streets were not too busy yet.  The hostel was busy with people trying to check in, people waiting for tours and people passed on the couches because they agree with me that 5:00am is just too early.  I was bored and not loving the hostel scene so I left to hunt for food.  In just a half hour the streets had gone from not too busy to mayhem.  There were motor bikes everywhere, people walking, people cooking food in the street, people carrying stuff, and store front’s opening.  I saw an entire street of just tape and packing materials stores.  There didn’t appear to be any restaurants, just random people cooking on the side of the street.  I walked a few blocks and went back to the hostel soaking wet, hungry and quite cranky.  A little while later I tried another food hunt with Louise and we found coffee and I got some bananas.

I decided to set out to see if I could find a place to fix my computer.  The lady working at the hostel suggested a place so I set out in the damp with a map to find it.  I found it and they said they didn’t cover hard ware problems.  They showed me a street not too far away that had computer stores so I headed in that direction.  The streets here are crazy.  There are more vehicles on the road than looks physically possible.  The motorbikes outnumber the cars and buses.  They pass each other with only an inch of room in between.  The motorbikes park on the sidewalk so you have no choice but to walk in traffic.  Crosswalks exist, but don’t mean anything.  You just have to walk in the street and hope no one hits you.  When you cross the street you just run or take a few steps while swarms of motorbikes go around you, take a few more steps and then a few more.  No one stops to let you cross, they just keep moving and weave in and out of each other and you.  Somehow it works.

The street with computer stores was 20 blocks or so with nothing but what looked like people selling electronics out of their garages.  It was kind of creepy.  I picked one and they tried real hard to fix it, but couldn’t figure it out.  I bought a usb drive and figured I could at least save all my files before I gave up on the computer.  I found a store a ways away that said “blah blah blah Microsoft” on google maps so I decided to try that before I reset my computer to factory settings I’d try that place.  My computer was made by Microsoft.  It was much farther than I thought and was the actual company Microsoft.  I figured they wouldn’t be able to help, but went up anyway.  The lady said the Surface was only made in America so they couldn’t help.  She suggested a place I could buy a new computer.

There was a restaurant in the building so I had lunch there.   They didn’t speak English, but after a bit, I managed to order stir fried veggies and rice.  I ran the thing on my computer that cleared it and took it back to factory settings.  It still didn’t fix the problem.  Half way through lunch I was overcome with the distinct feeling that I needed to stop eating now.  I felt ill and left without finishing my meal.  I’m exhausted, sick, damp, and upset by the loss of my computer.

I went to the store the Microsoft lady recommended which was waaaaay more walking.  I bought a new computer.  They said they could set it up in English.  Everything is so cheap here, except my computer.  It cost me $450.  They said it would take 2 hours to set up and I should come back.  It’s now 1:30 and I just want to check into my hotel and sleep, but I have to find something to do for 2 hours and I’m no longer anywhere near the hotel.  I find a coffee shop near by and sit in at a tiny table in a tiny chair on the sidewalk.  The guy who works there is nice and brings me coffee with a side of tea.  Strange, but ok.  Then when I’m done with my tiny coffee, he brings me more tea.  I took a chance and went back to the computer shop a half hour early and it was ready.  They helped me get a taxi back to my hotel and checked in around 5:00pm instead of 2:00.  By now I’m sure I have food poisoning.  It was either brushing my teeth on the train or the banana with the split in the side I had for breakfast.  It could have been lunch too since I had that distinct feeling or that may have been when it hit.

As is the case with most things, maybe all things, there is a spiritual component to this.  Process is coming up and things are moving and changing and I can’t control it, but just hold on tight and go with it.  I’ll post more about this in the next blog for those that are interested in these things.  For those that are not, I went to bed early.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Sicker

Yep, the trekking was too much.  I don’t feel any better, maybe worse.  It feels different so I think I may have caught something else while my immune system was down.  I just sat at coffee shops yesterday and worked.  Erin and Louise were happy to have a down day to catch up on emails and stuff so they hung most of the day with me.  Not sure what Annalise did.  Today, I felt worse yet, but still went on a hike to a viewpoint over the town.  It went through one of the strangest parks I’ve ever seen with scary statues, gardens, big rocks, a homestay and steep trails.  The viewpoint was great, but I shouldn’t have gone.  I’m just miserable now.  My computer doesn’t feel good either.  It will no longer recognize wifi signals.  It says there are no wifi connections when my phone sees over 20.  I spent 2 hours running trouble shooters which I already thought were useless and I’m now convinced are.  I did a system refresh which deleted every preference and app I had.  It didn’t delete my files though.  Still nothing.  I have Engineering work that needs to be done asap and I will not be able to do lesson plans without a computer.  I basically cannot survive without one.  I know Erin bought a computer in Thailand and it was reasonably priced and works well.  I will try to get it fixed in Hanoi tomorrow, but I don’t have much faith that is possible.  I will probably have to mail it back to the US to get fixed or replaced.  I feel completely defeated and just so tired.  I find it interesting how attached we are to our electronics.  I remember a time when I was able to survive without a cell phone and a computer.   We just connected with each other, made better plans and went to a place of business to work.  So, I’m still attached to my electronics.

We took another bus back to the train station to take the night train back to Hanoi.  I kinda excited about the night train.  I think the rocking will help lull me to sleep and maybe I’ll feel better tomorrow.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Sapa Trekking

The fog cleared a little.  It was still overcast, but warmer and everything looked less dire than it did yesterday.  I was able to book the last room at the Cat Cat hotel.  It was a family room with three beds for $25 a night.  Deal!  The view from the deck was stunning.  It was clean and had a heater in it.

The tour was wonderful.  We hiked through villages.  It didn’t look like it did in pictures because we were here before planting season.  They plant the rice in May so I imagine June and later is stunning.  They taught us a little about the different tribes in the area and we walked through some of the villages.  We walked through a bamboo forest, along top of the rice fields and to a waterfall.  Our guide and bunch of other women dressed in their traditional clothes walked with us.  The waterfall had almost no water, but it was still pretty.  At some point, we saw two water buffalo locking horns.  I thought that was a good point to throw some of Scott’s ashes over the rice fields.  So, in the future when you eat rice, imagine it might have come from Sapa and carries the joyous energy of that beautiful man.  I also left some of his ashes in the waterfall.

Of course, at the end of the tour, the ladies that were walking with us unpacked all their handmade wares and tried to get us to buy stuff for having “helped” us along the trek.  We got back in town and wandered around some more.  The town is much bigger than it felt yesterday and I like it a whole lot more than I did yesterday.  All the restaurants we have tried so far have been real good and everyone is nice.  The tribe ladies in the streets trying to sell you stuff or get you to sign up for tours is annoying though.

I’m still feeling horrible and today was great to get out and do some exercise, but now I feel worse.  It was a little too much activity.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Scott Rice Terraces

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My trekkin budy (she’s one year younger than me)

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Waterfall with no water

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Foggy Sapa

We arrived at the train station at 6:00am.  What’s my name?  A sweet lady shows up with sticky rice.  So I bought some thinking it would be like Thai sticky rice.  Oh no, it wasn’t.  It was tasteless patties of white goo that I was supposed to buy sausage to go with.  You make a rice goo sausage sandwich.  I ate one and decided I never needed to eat that again.  We waited out front of the train station for our shuttle.  It was a zoo of taxi drivers hassling us and backpackers everywhere.  Later it turns out one of the taxi drivers that was bugging us actually was our shuttle.  If he had a sign with our name or the hostel’s name on it, we would have gone with him sooner.  He finally showed us a confirmation email.  The ride to Sapa was at least an hour from the train station, maybe more.  It’s wet and foggy and everything is damp.  Omg, the streets of Sapa are so narrow and steep.  There were buses, motorbikes and hikers everywhere barely missing each other by inches.  I’m not sure how you even get a motorbike up the steepness of these roads.  It’s very cold and everything is wet and muddy.

We got to the hostel and didn’t have the private room we were promised.  Annalise took the last bottom bunk and the shower was cold.  There were no lockers or any way to lock up our valuables.  I felt very flustered and unhappy.  So, I decided I could just feel unhappy or I could change my situation so I asked if there was a private room I could upgrade to.  There was so I did that.

We set out in the cold foggy weather to see Sapa.  They sold “North Face” jackets, hiking boots, backpacks and other gear in every other store.  I didn’t want to buy more clothes, but I was freezing so I got leggings, a hat and gloves.  The North Face jackets were $15-$25.  I ended up buying one of those, not because I needed one, but because I have a jacket problem.

We went to the pharmacy because both Erin and I are sick.  In Thailand, you often skip the doctor and go straight to the pharmacy and the pharmacists speak English so we figured it might be the same in Vietnam.  She didn’t speak English and I doubt she was a pharmacist, but after a short game of guess this illness charades, we both had a pile of drugs.  Mine were sinus drainage drugs and an antibiotic.  So, if I have a sinus infection, that should work.  Fingers crossed.

We holed up most of the afternoon in a restaurant that had a fireplace and fabulous ginger tea.  We wandered around town a little, but it wasn’t really pleasant.  We signed up for a tour that included a waterfall and trekking through the tribal villages and rice fields for tomorrow.  Hopefully the fog clears enough to see something.  After dinner, I had a massage.  It was in a cold room and the massage was mediocre at best.  I miss Thai massage already.  She did do a lot of work on my face and head which felt great on my sinuses and hopefully helped!  The fog is creepy, but in a fabulous way at night.  I enjoyed walking back to the hostel in it.

I got back to my private hostel room and was met by the smell of mildew.  In the dark, it’s creepy.  There are cobwebs everywhere and it just feels gross, cold and wet.  It’s too late to do anything now, but first thing tomorrow, I’m going to book a room at the hotel next door which got good reviews.  It’s more expensive, but at this point I don’t care.  It’s official, I’m too old for hostels.

(c) All rights reserved Kimberly Fiore

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Look carefully, those are dead squirrels as decoration

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Ha!
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Tiny coffee with candle to keep it warm
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Disco Lights in my scary hostle room

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